My Urban Grey STi

[Scott.T]

Well here goes..... this should hopefully document all that get's done to the new aquisition.

Day 1
Arrival home after 300 mile drive / 600 mile round trip to collect




Before the evenng drew in, a fresh set of Genuine Brembo pads were fitted to the front.
The car came with 12 months MOT, and a Front Pad advisory.
As I had a spare set it, they went straight on.

While I was there the wheels got a front/back clean.

[Scott.T]

Day 2
Time for a clean, and good chance to checkout the bodywork

Pressure wash arches:


Snow Foam :



Dry off and time for a few more pics :





Bodywork has been well looked after. A few little bit's here and there. And the usual couple that you didn't spot when vieiwing to purchase.

Overall Very pleased with how it's been looked after.

Door shuts and sills were already quite clean but gave them a going over too with the obligoratiory baby wipes, and found this :



As mentioned above the bodywork has been well looked after but thought I would start with a clay and was shocked at what the clay picked up.
This was just off the rear face of the boot :



Just goes to show that 'it aint clean unil its clayed'.

Weather then looked a bit dodgy and it started to rain, so retired it to the garage. Will contiue tomorrow if weaher OK and 'Mothers Day' don't get in the way LOL.......

[Steve_PPP]

So did all hawkeye's get a PPP which took them to 316bhp? More than the blobs got!

Looking spotless already, you'll have Jay worried soon

[Lucky]

Love it Scott, such a nice colour. It always amazes me how much crap the clay pulls out of the paint. I shall be attacking mine today so will hopefully get some pics up. I'll get those measurements for you too .


Steve, when the 2.5 had PPP added they went to 316bhp, although they reckon that that is actually quite conservative as most produced more. I know when mine was standard and simon remapped it, his road dyno was showing around 302bhp with no PPP (should be 275bhp).

[Steve_PPP]

Interesting that it makes more on the 2.5 than the 2.0

Looking fantastic mate, I think you have chosen very wisely.

However .....







........ your health and safety leaves a bit to be desired in pic 3

[Anger]

All cars will make more on the road tho Lucky

Cars looking good Scott

[Hongkongfooi]

Originally Posted by worzel

However .....







........ your health and safety leaves a bit to be desired in pic 3

I was thinking that! although has electrical cutout

[Lucky]

Originally Posted by Hongkongfooi

I was thinking that! although has electrical cutout

I laughed when I saw it, then this morning looked at mine, covered in snow foam!!!

[scooby doo]

Very very nice Scott, love the colour, be interesting to see how different it compares to your classic,

[Scott.T]

1st round of polishing complete :

[majorscooby]

Shes a real cracker but i can honestly say i liked your old classic a tad more fella

Wouldnt say no though, but this just hasnt got your stamp on it yet being so new and all.

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by majorscooby

Shes a real cracker but i can honestly say i liked your old classic a tad more fella

Wouldnt say no though, but this just hasnt got your stamp on it yet being so new and all.

I agree, a bit too 'factory' for me aswell.
But things will be 'tailored' in time. Just concentrating on getting it 'Scott Clean' as polish and elbow grease are cheap.

Shopping list is already getting quite long. But the quicker I do things the quicker there won't be anything to do.
That was one of the reasons the classic went, as ran out of things to do other then throw £7k at and engine/gearbox. I didn't even spend £7K (on op of the classic sale) to get the hawkeye.

[WRX_Paul]

Lovely colour mate, good choice!

[Tyler]

Beautiful!!!!

[AndySpecD]

Health and safety issue number 2 - keep your back straight and bend your legs!

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Looks in nice condition, very smart looking car.

[wrx sti 320bhp]

it look lovely,i keep picturing black wheel and red mud flaps on it

[chris wrx]

Nice car mate, out of interest Scott where did u get the gold paint that u used on your discs on your classic , having trouble finding that nice deep gold.

Any thought's on suspention yet Scott? I found the Eighbach progresive springs worked well on my old Scoob.

[SpecB]

Looking great - I'll be getting my foam etc. out next week - about time mine had some TLC - what polish did you use and is it machined?

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by chris wrx

Nice car mate, out of interest Scott where did u get the gold paint that u used on your discs on your classic , having trouble finding that nice deep gold.

It was just bright gold plasticote from B&Q.
just mask off with insulation tape on the disk and paper on the caliper.

it is quite bright to start with but does dull down after a few weeks.

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Nige

Any thought's on suspention yet Scott? I found the Eighbach progresive springs worked well on my old Scoob.

Very limitted choice for the Wide-Track 2005> STi.
Was going for Prodrive springs, but they are dicontinued.

Will probably get Tein S Tech (euro spec) springs.

I don't know of any other options.

Need to change the angle of my drive at the top 1st.

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by wrx sti 320bhp

it look lovely,i keep picturing black wheel and red mud flaps on it

Dark wheels, Yes. Red Flaps

[Greig]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Very limitted choice for the Wide-Track 2005> STi.
Was going for Prodrive springs, but they are dicontinued.

Will probably get Tein S Tech (euro spec) springs.

I don't know of any other options.

Need to change the angle of my drive at the top 1st.

I had tein springs on my classic and they were redicilously hard

[Lucky]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Very limitted choice for the Wide-Track 2005> STi.
Was going for Prodrive springs, but they are dicontinued.

Will probably get Tein S Tech (euro spec) springs.

I don't know of any other options.

Need to change the angle of my drive at the top 1st.

Out of interest, how much are the teins and are they lower than the prodrive springs?

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Greig

I had tein springs on my classic and they were redicilously hard

The previous JDM Spec Teins where very hard. But later euro sec ones are supposed to be alot better for UK roads.
A guy on s'net replied to one of my questions and reckon they are not alot firmer then standard.

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Lucky

Out of interest, how much are the teins and are they lower than the prodrive springs?

I think they are a little lower then the Prodrive Springs.

Spec and Alyn have quoted 30mm Front and 15mm Rear.

my car is currently sitting at :

690mm Front
670mm Rear

So would drop it to approx :

660mm Front
655mm Rear

Yours mesured :

670mm Front
660mm Rear

So as expected and 'IF' as quoted a tad lower then the Prodrives..

[andy-m]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Day 2

This was just off the rear face of the boot :



Just goes to show that 'it aint clean unil its clayed

i guess we all underestimate the amount of air turbulance at the back. thats probably air tubulance blowing exhaust gasses on to the back of the car.

looking realy nice btw.
am jelous lol

[Scott.T]

Week 2

As with many Scoob's the engine seems to attract alot of muck, even on low mileage cars. so tme to break out the cleaning fluids.

images so before and after.
The before shots don't really so quite how mucky it was.

Before


After



Close-Up

Before


After


Before


After

[Hongkongfooi]

Bloody hellnthat engines clean! What did you use?

[Steve_PPP]

Nice job!

How much did you have to take out to clean it that well?

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Hongkongfooi

Bloody hellnthat engines clean! What did you use?

Started with White spirit and tooth brush on the air-con hoses, alternator, air-con compressor, fuel pipes turbo housing and hose.

Then get the engine warm and spray good old 'Gunk' over everything else. Worked it in on some areas or hard to reach areas with a medium sized paint brush.

Cover the battery with a carrier bag and spray the hole lot off with pressure washer. Taking it easy around the electricals, and keeping the engine running all the time.

Keep repeating with the 'Gunk' and paintbrush on area's missed and cleaning off with pressure washer before 'Gunk' dries.

Once done let it idle for 30mins to let it dry out.

Then a quick dress-up with some rubber/hose/plastic cleaner. All in, took about 2 hours. Well worth it and now easy to keep clean.

TBH could of probably skipped the white Spirit bit as the 'Gunk' really shifted the grime. Will just have to put up with the smell now for a bit. Will probably still smell at the meet next week (the car, not me...although I can still smell it).

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Steve_PPP

Nice job!

How much did you have to take out to clean it that well?

Nothing, see above.

[majorscooby]

Good old Gunk, cant beat the stuff!!! Nice job Scott

[chris wrx]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

It was just bright gold plasticote from B&Q.
just mask off with insulation tape on the disk and paper on the caliper.

it is quite bright to start with but does dull down after a few weeks.

Cheers Scott

looks mint, love a shiny engine bayr

[Lucky]

Nice Scott. I was lucky enough that Brent did mine when he serviced it, so all I had to do was dress it. As you say, much easier now to keep on top of it.

[SUBARMAN]

Awesome Scott!!

[AndyWRX]

Looks good mate

[Scott.T]

Had a few visits from postie this week ......hope to post some updates over the weekend .

[ralliart didz]

that engine bay looks so nice silversufer do you ever sleep

[SpecB]

The postie keeps bringing me things too - there seems to be some kind of relationship between the posties visits and my bank account!

[Chunk]

Looking good mate

Was nice and shiney before, but looks brand new now

[ralliart didz]

silversufer,shame you didnt video your engine cleaning with jet washer as i would like 2 do mine but scared of ****ing it up.

[Scott.T]

This weekends efforts :

TSL Grp'N' Rear Box


Miltek entre link Pipe (Un-resonated)


STi Splitter

[Scott.T]

Don't u just love aftermarket parts......

TSL Grp N comes with easy fit hangers that previoulsy used 'P' Clips. This current design is no different, but had no 'P'Clips, so a trip to the hardware store was required.

MilTek centre comes with bolts/spring fixings that are too big for the flange fitting on the OE cat pipe so the cat pipe needs drilling. They also come without nuts to fit on the end of the supplied bolts (how bazaar,not even on the packing list). These are a different size to OE so unless you have a draw of nuts (like me) that will be another trip to your local hardware store.

However don't bother as they end up too short, the spring mount prevents you from getting a nut on the end. So resorted to plain old M8 nuts/bolts and washers as I had done on my last scoob.....easy job made long and frustrating due to supplier not providing the correct hardware.

[Scott.T]

Next weeks project :

[Steve_PPP]

Taking shape nicely

Hawkeyes just *need* a splitter, makes it look ten times better. And with some Prodrive springs, the arch gap will be gone too.

Good going

[ralliart didz]

where did you get splitter from silversurfer.how much 4 backbox

[Hongkongfooi]

Looking good Scott.....exhaust sound loud enough for you?

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Hongkongfooi

Looking good Scott.....exhaust sound loud enough for you?

Still fully cat'd at the moment so still a bit muted. Certainly got more scooby soundtrack now though.Hopefully when decatted i should be back to the sound I had on the Classic.

[Lucky]

Very nice scott, nice to see those soppy pink STI stickers gone too

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Lucky

Very nice scott, nice to see those soppy pink STI stickers gone too

well spotted...........

I like them without the sti stickers as those that know know & thoses that dont know dont need to know you know! Know what i mean?

[Lucky]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Don't u just love aftermarket parts......

TSL Grp N comes with easy fit hangers that previoulsy used 'P' Clips. This current design is no different, but had no 'P'Clips, so a trip to the hardware store was required.

MilTek centre comes with bolts/spring fixings that are too big for the flange fitting on the OE cat pipe so the cat pipe needs drilling. They also come without nuts to fit on the end of the supplied bolts (how bazaar,not even on the packing list). These are a different size to OE so unless you have a draw of nuts (like me) that will be another trip to your local hardware store.

However don't bother as they end up too short, the spring mount prevents you from getting a nut on the end. So resorted to plain old M8 nuts/bolts and washers as I had done on my last scoob.....easy job made long and frustrating due to supplier not providing the correct hardware.

My centre pipe was exactly the same. Did the same as you and its been fine.

[Scott.T]

Took the day off today as courier was coming to collect some old Scooby bits sold on ebay, so thought I may aswell change the springs.





Will update with picture of car once it's settled on the springs.
Done an oil change aswell before lunch and then built a wall in the afternoon, so bloody knackered now and not had a chance to give it a good drive yet.

[Scott.T]

NOTE TO SELF : When the car is lowered and your doing an oil change/working under the bonnet....STOP KICKING/TREADING ON THE SPLITTER.......

[AndyWRX]

Supprised you didnt clean the springs before you put them on fella

Rust & dirt Scott!!! Thats not like you

[Scott.T]

Couple of quick shots.

[Lucky]

Looking good

[Steve_PPP]

Really liking that

[AndyWRX]

Looks really good fella

[RobEvo5]

Nice to see you putting your stamp on it, and does look v.nice.

But have to say I did like you old classic as well and just as much.

Liking that a lot Scott, looking very nice indeed

[Scott.T]

Well this weekend, the car spent most of it's time up on bricks........





Took a quick snap this eveing......

[Hongkongfooi]

Looks much better...although 18's would be sweet!

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Hongkongfooi

Looks much better...although 18's would be sweet!

Agree but those Rota GT-Forces don't come cheap and I gotta stop spending....

[ralliart didz]

them gold wheels anger got would look wicked on your car silversurfer

[Steve_PPP]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Oh yes

Getting better and better every time we see it!

I'm liking that mate.

Looking the dogs fella

[Lucky]

Fantastic Scott. I've gotta say, I still really like those wheels, they really suit the car and I prefered the way mine drove on 17's. If my 18's hadnt come about so cheaply I would still be on the 17's.

Oh, and looks like I had better clean mine for sunday!!

[majorscooby]

Nice job, gotta have some balls to attempt a job like that and get a good result as you have!

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by majorscooby

Nice job, gotta have some balls to attempt a job like that and get a good result as you have!

Done it many time before, especially on my old Ford RS alloys from years back.
Infact i did a set of Compomotives even before I had a licence, but didn't understand offset or PCD back then and found they didn't fit my car when I passed my test. Datsun (that's a Nissan for all you young'ns) fitment doesn't fit a Ford Escort DOH !!!

[Lucky]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Done it many time before, especially on my old Ford RS alloys from years back.
Infact i did a set of Compomotives even before I had a licence, but didn't understand offset or PCD back then and found they didn't fit my car when I passed my test. Datsun (that's a Nissan for all you young'ns) fitment doesn't fit a Ford Escort DOH !!!

LOL, I did exactly the same with a set of those on my MK 2. Never forget it, we dropped the car back down, thought 'awesome', and then tried to reverse it off the drive and it was going nowhere

[bigemp]

wheels look much better,just waiting for my m8 to do mine as well

[Scooby_Greg]

Scott - looks a great job on the wheels. They do suit the hawk.

[Hongkongfooi]

Originally Posted by Lucky

Fantastic Scott. I've gotta say, I still really like those wheels, they really suit the car and I prefered the way mine drove on 17's. If my 18's hadnt come about so cheaply I would still be on the 17's.

Oh, and looks like I had better clean mine for sunday!!

its saturday steve....dont forget!

[Lucky]

Originally Posted by Hongkongfooi

its saturday steve....dont forget!

OH BUGGER!, Was it not a Sunday last year?. I had in my head it was Sunday. Thats going to be a problem then, as I am working. Will have to see what I can do..........

[Steve_PPP]

Originally Posted by Lucky

Will have to see what I can do..........

Its simple, play the 'boss' card and rope someone else into doing it

[RobEvo5]

Much better - Good choice of shade of grey, and at least you can do them again whenever you need to now.

Looks very nice.
I am thinking you won't be leaving the shocks and inner arches the way they are for too long though.

[Scott.T]

Was gonna get Defi's but can't justify the price/outlay at the moment.
But discovered last week that ProSport do a 60mm version.
I much prefer 60mm to 52mm and hadn't seen 60mm ProSport in the UK.

They only seem to be available in USA or Japan/Hong Kong.

For the money, I thought I'd give the Turbo Gauge a trial.
All the same features of the Defi, but without having to stash the controller somewhere. Same Black face when off and red illumination too as per the Defi BF.
If I'm happy I'll get Oil Temp and Pressure in a month or 2.

I have the prosport Scott. They lie.

[Scott.T]

most do by about 0.1bar, even Defi

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Well this weekend, the car spent most of it's time up on bricks.

Thats where Scoobs spend most of there time anyway

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Nige

Thats where Scoobs spend most of there time anyway

Ooh....pot & kettle !!!!
Bricks are alot cheaper then a ramp at Sumo

Yes thats true. The performance on the other hand is priceless

[Lucky]

I have been happy with my prosprorts. Exactly how accurate they are am not sure, I think the boost overreads slightly, but they look good!!

[Brad Wrx]

excellent work so far scott

[AndySpecD]

Love the darker STI wheels on the hawkeye, although I may be slightly biased

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by AndySpecD

Love the darker STI wheels on the hawkeye, although I may be slightly biased

V.nice, did you tint the headlights yourself ??

[AndySpecD]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

V.nice, did you tint the headlights yourself ??

Yep, although they're de-chromed rather than tinted, the lens is still clear. Took the headlamps off, undid the fixings and with the help of an electric oven managed to separate the lenses from the back part of the headlamp assembly. Painted the back section black and put it all back together again. Takes a bit of time but not too hard to do.

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by AndySpecD

Yep, although they're de-chromed rather than tinted, the lens is still clear. Took the headlamps off, undid the fixings and with the help of an electric oven managed to separate the lenses from the back part of the headlamp assembly. Painted the back section black and put it all back together again. Takes a bit of time but not too hard to do.

Cool, was onmy to-do list.

There seem to be conflicting reports as to whether you have to take the bumper off and also whether the hawkeye lights need to go in the oven ??

[AndySpecD]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Cool, was onmy to-do list.

There seem to be conflicting reports as to whether you have to take the bumper off and also whether the hawkeye lights need to go in the oven ??

Yes and yes - bumper needs to come off to remove the headlamps and the headlamps need to be oven baked for 5 minutes to heat up the sealant to get them apart.

[ralliart didz]

silversufer,there is a thread on nasioc about painting you headlights with out taking bumper off. its called HOW TO CLEAR O6 HEADLIGHTS AND PAINT

i brought zunesport upper grills 4 my hawkeye and been trying 2 fit them,but just looked at your car car and it looks like yours is different 2 mine.so i need sti mouldings

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by didlo

silversufer,there is a thread on nasioc about painting you headlights with out taking bumper off. its called HOW TO CLEAR O6 HEADLIGHTS AND PAINT

i brought zunesport upper grills 4 my hawkeye and been trying 2 fit them,but just looked at your car car and it looks like yours is different 2 mine.so i need sti mouldings

Cheers mate, I did reada few threads on nasioc, but not that one so will give it a look.

[ralliart didz]

your welcome let me no if is easy,because if u muck it up its about £800 for second hand lights

i need 2 get these so my mesh grills fit


they want £150 on ebay,which is taking the piss i think

[Lucky]

Originally Posted by didlo

your welcome let me no if is easy,because if u muck it up its about £800 for second hand lights

Which is why i've left mine alone!!

[Scott.T]

Headlight Mods :

This is a modification I identified as a must have even before I bought the Hawkeye STI. It has taken since March to do the research, find the time and make sure my wife was out so I could use the oven

Alot of stories about it being much harder then the Blobeye modification, that you have to take the bumper of and the headlights are very expensive if you break them......but I thought in Top Gear style 'How Hard Can It Be' !!!!!!

Before Modification :


1. Mask up around edge of headlight and around edges of centre and left/right grills. These need to come out to gain access to the headlight mounting bolts.

2. Remove large trim clips from top edge of bumper, along slam panel.

3. Remove small trim clips holding grills in place, and 1 small trim clip on each top edge of headlight.

4. Remove centre grill by placing hand down behind and releasing 4 plastic clips, 2 easg side.

5. Remove left and right hand grills in a similar fashion. They are a bit of a fiddle but they will come out and you will realise why masking the bumper is a good idea.

6. Remove the single M6 bolt from the top of the headlight where it bolts to the slam panel.

7. Remove the 2 M6 bolts, 2 M6 nuts and 1 trim clip that hold the headlight in place that are located behind the grill you have just removed.

8. Now comes the removal of the light. Give it a wiggle and a tug on the outer/wing edge. It should partly pop out (If anyone has removed the sidelight on a classic they will be familiar with the pin/clip that hold it into the wing retainer). Tilt the light forward and try to get it under the slam panel as far as possible, making sure the mounting bracket that was un-bolted previously draws of it's mounting bolts . The light will not fully come out like this, but once it is as far as possible place your hand behind the light and lift up, you should now be able to see between the bottom of the light and the bumper to see what's stopping it coming forward. Basically nothing is stopping at apart from the base of the light just touching the top edge of the appature/bumper lip. A twist and a shove from behind should pop it out, all the time making sure the mounting bracket hasn't managed to slip back onto it's mount bolts.

9. At this stage it will be partly out bar from the loom connector. Disconnect these and your done. Steps 1 - 9 above took me approx 30 mins, alot quicker then i thought it would take.



10. Repeat the above for the other light. I managed to get this one out alot quicker after learning on the other side.



Looks quite cool don't it



11. Retire to the comfort of the kitchen breakfast bar



12. Remove the 5 self-tapping screws from the rear of the light.

13. I also removed the Ballast resistor that's screwed to the bottom of the housing, as didn't want to risk damaging that in the oven. Remove the 3 screws holding this in place and disonnect the cable harness from it.

14. Set oven to 100 DegC and timer to 10 mins, place light in oven on baking tray.



Yes I know the oven door needs cleaning, but that's not my department.......

15. Remove after 10 minutes and leaver open the headlight with a large flat blade screwdriver, it comes apart wuite easy. I started at the bottom incase the screwdriver damaged/marked the plastics. It did make small marks but by the time you work round to the top edge which will be visible when re-fitted, it comes off easier and hence doesn't mark the plastic. Once it is loose and you have a gap one end it can be pulled apart by hand. Cut or catch the excess sealant as you go.



16. You now have 2 halves.



17. Put rear section to one side after tapping the stringy/excess sealant roughly back in place. Do the same with the front lense.

18. Remove the self-tapper screws that hold the refelctor in place on the front lense. Then remove the reflector



19. I then masked a ring around the HID apature to maintain a chrome ring. Some people spray the whole reflector black, other spray a coloured rings around the HID. But I decide to stick with chrome.

20. Spray reflector with colour of your choice. I used Satin Black Plasti-kote.

21. Remove masked HID ring and ready for re-fitting



22. Refit refelctor into lense.

23. To soften the sealant prior to refitting I placed both halves back in the over for 5 mins at 100DegC.

24. Remove from oven and while still hot quickly push two halves together and screw back in place.

25. Refit ballast resistor......job done in about 30 mins including paint (dried with hair drier)

Compared lights :



26. Repeat for other side.

Took approx 2 hours to remove dismantle, paint and re-assemble both lights.
All back in the car, fitting back was easier then taking out, although highly recommend the use of plenty of masking tape to protect the surrounding area's.




And another little mod whils I was there....
Been trying to De-Pink the front end and failed a few times with re-painting the STI badge to my satisfation (quite tricky due to the bi-colour embossed badge).
Decided to by an aftermarket Red badge.


Found by pure fluke that the one I ordered had the 'Red' bits stuck to the 'Black' bit. A sharp blade and some cotton managed to seperate the 2.


Re-Paint the 'Red' bits


Re-Fit, while Grill was off the car

A few more pic's out in daylight.