Got me some cheap rubbish headers.

[RobEvo5]

These turned up today, cheap as chips and likely get dissed by most but actually thought for the money they are very well engineered with all the welds being top notch as well as the fabrication. One piece as well so no need to worry about the upipe flanges not mating up to the headers.

Comes complete with all gaskets nuts and bolts as well.

Almost seems a shame to wrap them.

[Jolly Green Monster]

If the gaskets are the perforated foil type then bin them as the innerards blow out in about two miles.
Usually the flexi or metal around it fails.
But as it you Rob you are unlikely to own it long enough to see the issue

[Scott.T]

Check your flange.....against something you know is flat i.e metal rule or even better a calibrated flat suface.
Check it on the header connection and the up-pipe connection.
Some of these cheap ones are warped during the welding process and no matter how good your gasket is, it won't seal.

My single peice cheapy i had lasted about a year then the weld snapped at the cylinder head flange.
As you say Rob they are cheap but you will have sold it way before they break

[RobEvo5]

This a direct replacement for the one that was on there which lasted about 19months before the flexi part split. But like you say should easily last during the time I have the car.

Simon - Thanks for the tip with regards the cheap non cometic gaskets, always wondered whether these were as rubbish as they look. I will make sure I use the original OEM ones unless they look knackered in which case it will be a quick trip to Robertsbridge subaru.

Its a shame these cheap headers haven't been revisited by the manufacturer. All the hard work is done and the build it pretty good. They only need to fine tune their QA procedures and they could have a very good cheap header...

Oh well only dilema now is whether to do the job myself and I do have time tomorrow and Saturday to do it. Or just take the easy option of paying Tone to do it. But If I do it myself I'll be able to change them in half the time if they ever do let go, and also if my turbo ever lets go I would have had practice taking it off.

If I dont do it myself I will feel like I'm cheating, as the idea of this car was something of a play thing to tinker on. Think I have answered my own question..... just hope I dont regret it.

[RobEvo5]

Originally Posted by SilverSurfer

Check your flange.....against something you know is flat i.e metal rule or even better a calibrated flat suface.
Check it on the header connection and the up-pipe connection.
Some of these cheap ones are warped during the welding process and no matter how good your gasket is, it won't seal.

Another good tip - Cheers matey.

Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster

But as it you Rob you are unlikely to own it long enough to see the issue

PMSL

[Dyney]

Rob, you may have to undo the drivers side engine mount and jack the engine up a little to get the top flange between the engine and the subframe.

[RobEvo5]

Originally Posted by Dyney

Rob, you may have to undo the drivers side engine mount and jack the engine up a little to get the top flange between the engine and the subframe.

Wished I had read this before I had a head scratching moment thinking how on earth is it going to come out. But yep you have obviously come across this one yourself. Like you say the drivers one does need to be undone and lift engine by about 2 inches. There is no way its coming out otherwise.

Another tip for anyone looking to wrap headers or downpipe. Is make sure you use gloves and old clothes. I didn't and have had itching/hurting hands for days afterwards from the fine fibres stuck in my skin. Washing does not get rid of them. And you won't get the fibres out of the clothes either.