Wagon suspension suggestions

[Scruff]

I think i'm gonna be after a new set of shocks and springs for my 02 impreza WRX wagon soon and am after some advice - its a bit rattly. As much as i would like a set of coilovers, i don't think i can stretch to that sort of cost so I was wondering if i could fit a set of KYB shocks and springs designed for the Impreza STI saloon of the same year so that i could achieve a small drop in ride height as well as stiffening and renewing it all and at a cheaper price (heres being hopeful).

I'd love to be able to get some used shocks and springs off ebay but given the age of my car, any used ones would probably be getting to the same sort of rattly stage.

If anyone on here has a used set that they say are good then i'd certainly consider taking them off your hands as i'd trust someone from here rather than an unknown ebayer. Or, maybe one of you can suggest something better for me to do. I am considering getting something on tick. I've seen that a couple of companies offer 0% finance so that could make things a bit more affordable for me.

[Steve_PPP]

There's not a huge difference between WRX and STI springs. I made that swap and then changed again a while later to Prodrive springs which made a much bigger difference. Depends if you want to keep it feeling completely standard or not.

With shocks, I'd definitely buy new imo.

[Scruff]

Judging by the photos from Goodwood, it could definitely do with being a little stiffer/flatter around the corners.

*I think there is a difference between the wagon and saloon WRX springs. The wagon rides a fair bit higher imo.

[andy-m]

i got BC coilovers on my classic wagon that were for the saloon. would recommend them. New they were about £650 if I remember correctly.

The thing to remember though is that if you lowerthe car, you need the roll center correction kit really. You can leave the dampers set quite stiff or use stiffer springs to hide the fact that your roll center has been raised, but if you lower the car at all, you raise the roll center and actually increase body roll.

explained here

that being said, mine is lowered and I don't have the roll centre correction kit installed, but it's on my "to do" list when funds allow

[riiidaa]

http://www.surreyscoobies.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=49232

[Scruff]

Originally Posted by andy-m

i got BC coilovers on my classic wagon that were for the saloon. would recommend them. New they were about £650 if I remember correctly.

The thing to remember though is that if you lowerthe car, you need the roll center correction kit really. You can leave the dampers set quite stiff or use stiffer springs to hide the fact that your roll center has been raised, but if you lower the car at all, you raise the roll center and actually increase body roll.

explained here

that being said, mine is lowered and I don't have the roll centre correction kit installed, but it's on my "to do" list when funds allow

That, is confusing. I can understand it from the pictures but reading it has made my head hurt. Thanks though, good info to remember. I've never done a roll centre correction to any car that I've had lowered. After reading that, I'm hoping that if I go standard saloon suspension, it won't make too much difference the as you've done, get the correction sorted another day. The main objective here is to get through the mot.

Riiidaa, I'll drop the man a PM, many thanks for that!

[riiidaa]

You're welcome - good timing it seems

[andy-m]

yeah, I don't notice the roll much cuz the suspension is stiff and hiding it like I said, but if I do a long hard corner, I can feel the bump steer if the road isn't quite smooth.
Made my head hurt reading it too, but like you said, the pictures explain it better.

If you think of a ball with the COG as the center and the roll center as the surface of the ball, then a bigger ball (One with a greater distance between the center and surface) will have more roll. Well that's how I managed to make sense of it at least

[riiidaa]

from the thread i linked too

Originally Posted by fpan

You need the weight of all the unsprung mass as well as the weight per axle in order to calculate the spring rates accurately

In my previous WRX wagon, in order to convert it from a boat to a good handling and fun car I had the following done:

- Prodrive springs
- Whiteline 22mm front and rear ARBs
- Whiteline rose jointed front droplinks (as the OEM ones were sitting at a weird angle due to the aftermarket ARB)
- Whiteline aluminium (C-shape) rear droplinks
- Whiteline ALK
- 18" wheels

it totally transformed the car.

[Banstead Stig]

That was a 2007 wagon, but I'd guess the principles are the same on any newage.

[Scruff]

That lot looks expensive, one thing at a time! just wanna get rid of the rattles first.

[Ginola]

Don't buy cheap.. or buy twice..

The best fast road route you could take would be eibach/prodrive springs with new KYB shocks/or bilsteins if the funds stretch.

Roll center correction becomes necessary when you drop the car low enough to make the hubs sit higher than the gearbox outputs of the shafts. (It most likely wont be needed with a set of prodrive/eibach springs the drop is aprox 15mm)

Anti lift kits actually induce more lift and dive.. (stupid I know) but they do give you bags more castor so better turn in / feel with scoobies you want as much castor as you can get., If you have coilovers you can cheat and rotate the top plates and use a set of camber bolts to offset.

A rear anti roll bar next to springs/shocks is the biggest single upgrade you can perform. 22mm or 24mm adjustable on the back some will say same on the front.. I run 22mm adjustable eibach on the rear at fully stiff and it works very well with the standard sti front. This promotes oversteer rather than understeer

My advise would be (if you can not afford good quality coilovers) Prodrive or Eibach springs, new kyb shocks.. a set of camber bolts and a good geometry setup.. This will transform the car.

Uprated drop links are a bonus but for track use I would not bother with the cheap figure of 8 ones. they are worth replacing if your current ones are worn.

Bare in mind that most suspension changes NEED a geometry setup afterwards to straighten everything/set it up best for your intended use.