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Old 16-08-2010, 07:31 AM
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SpecB SpecB is offline
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Default Running in etc.

OK couple of questions to get peoples views....

I've had a rebuilt forged 2.5 fitted to my 2002 WRX - original spec was 2.0 WRX engine with tumbler deletes, pink injectors, Walbro 225 fuel pump, K&N panel filter 3' Miltek sports catted exhaust, APS SR40 turbo, Sti TMIC, APS dual port BOV and Perrin Parallel fuel rails. This was JGM mapped on ECUtek to 370BHP.

The new engine is a fully forged 2.5 with STI 8 AVCS heads I've also swapped to a HDI FMIC and CAK intake - my plan is to very slowly drive the car home without a remap - (about 40 miles) is this wise? The engine is then being remapped onto syvecs before I use the car again.

Once on a running in map what's the best way to treat the engine - I know I need to do around 500miles on mineral oil with low boost (<4K) varying the engine speed and not using full throttle. Any other tips?
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2005 Spec B 6MT - KiDO tuned (~270Bhp)
Custom exhaust - Cosworth filter - Samco Intake - Tints - Bilstein B8/B6 & STI springs - SuperPro ALK - Whiteline positive shift kit, rack mounts, rear adjustable camber bushes, front ARB mounts & strut brace, 20mm rear ARB with AVO mounts, - Hardrace Gearbox and pitch mounts - Prodrive PFF7's - Front Brembos - Kenwood CarPlay - 1/2 carbon grille - STI front splitter
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Old 16-08-2010, 09:39 AM
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2-jaffacake-tone 2-jaffacake-tone is offline
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speak to the engine builer and see what they recomend, each build can be diffrent.
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Old 16-08-2010, 10:00 AM
worzel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-jaffacake-tone View Post
speak to the engine builer and see what they recomend, each build can be diffrent.
when I ran mine in, I was told by many people that it's all about heat cycles. So I mixed up my driving with lots of short journeys and 1 longish one from home to Dover and back.

I was also told though, that running in too sedately can cause glazing on the bores.
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Old 25-08-2010, 08:01 AM
The Gimp The Gimp is offline
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Get ready for some mental power matey.

Going to be a blast. How you get on with the FMIC fitting in the end?

Steve
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Old 25-08-2010, 08:34 AM
Spooky Spooky is offline
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Do whatever your builder tells you to do, but as a guide

0 miles: Running in map
1-500 miles: up to 4k rpm, upto 0.5bar boost.
501-1000 miles: Change oil and filter... up to 5.5k rpm, upto 0.7bar-0.8bar boost.
1001 – 1800 miles: Change oil and filter... upto 6.5k rpm, upto 1.0bar boost.
1801+ : Final map, give it the beans.

You should load the engine to bed the piston rings in properly so holding the boost on is good, this is easier in the higher gears.

You should avoid running in on motorways as sitting at a constant rpm for any duration whilst running the engine in as it may cause the bores to glaze. If you do use the motorway be a pain to everyone around you and vary your speed high and low and change up and down gears holing on boost and off boost. Variety within the limits is key! But concentrate in loading the engine and holding the boost on within said limits.

Oh and wind the boost up slowly, don’t punch it! Just use a steady action to bring the boost on in a controlled manner…
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