'X' Plate Classic - Rise of the Silver Surfer

[Ginola]

I expect that is a lot cleaner than mine underneath! sills are in surprisingly good order for something that gets driven in the winter in the UK!

[Scott.T]

Time to crack on and do the other side and get it up in the air :


Skirts off and a quick wipe down :



Underside brushed down and a fresh coat of underseal :



Gravel rash, which will get sorted in slower time. This is where there are what I can only assume are drainage panels in the skirt's. Hence the paint takes a bit of a beating :

[munk]

nice scott funnily enough after our chat at the harvester i had mine off and done exactly the same!! good shape aswell luckilly!! and repaired the jacking points!! using that hammerite underneath aswell. top job

[Scott.T]

Paintwork
Out of my control. Let's hope they get it right.

[scotty]

Originally Posted by Scott.T

Paintwork
Out of my control. Let's hope they get it right.

Ooooo is that rear arches getting some beauty treatment with a nice makeover .

[Lucky]

Originally Posted by Scott.T

Paintwork
Out of my control. Let's hope they get it right.

If they know you personally then I seriously wouldn't want to be the bloke painting it

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Lucky

If they know you personally then I seriously wouldn't want to be the bloke painting it

LOL....funny you should say that. The paintshop called today to delay by 2 weeks as they want to be sure they can spend the time it deserves on it.
They are hoping I will push similar work their way so want to be sure it meets my expectations.

[RobEvo5]

Originally Posted by Scott.T

They are hoping I will push similar work their way so want to be sure it meets my expectations.

I'm sure the bodywork/welding/filling will be fine, but will take a very skilled painter to get the 16 year metallic paint to match like it was always there. They have age to factor, colour/shade, metallic content and grain size, spray direction, lacquer discolour/shading to name but a few to worry about. Oh and will probably need a paint scrapper to take of the years of polish/wax before they attack it with any paint/primer.

That said well worth getting done and taking the plunge so hope it all come out well and can't wait to see the results.

[Ginola]

Will be watching this closely, I really hope it comes out spot on, I know how much of a pain it is when it doesn't!

The hard bit will be resisting the urge to wax it for a few weeks afterwards

[Scott.T]

Well after many years of putting it of, this week my car finally entered a bodyshop.
I had planned to get the gravel rash (front splitter/bonnet done) about 5 years ago, but just didn't get round to it.
As some of you now the car ended up sold back in March 2011, only for me to buy it back in October 2012. Unfortunately the temporary owner also didn't get round to painting the car.

I've lived with it for the last 3.5 years, and as with all classics rust was the forcing hand that caused the car to finally enter a bodyshop.

Below are details the reasons and process :

Upon receiving the car back in Oct 2012 rust had started to show on the rear arch. This was only 2 pin-heads that would not be noticed by the casual observer.
By 2014 it had started to grow.

2014 Rust Growth :



Other than squirting some rust treatment down the inside of the inner wings/inside boot the rust was not touch. The below shows the growth over 2 years

2016 Rust Growth :



2016 Gravel Rash :





Damaged Bonnet :
(I cut through the laquer trying to sort chip out a while back)



Paintshop Prep :
Bonnet Vents, Scoop, Splitter were all removed and area's cleaned prior to dropping off at the paintshop

[Scott.T]

Images provided from paintshop showing rust repair.

Rust section cut out :
Only a very small amount was cut out, so small infact that from the inside I still can's see it encroaching into the boot area.

A small section also needed cutting and plating on the inner wing, which can just about be seen in the hole below



Plated and tidied :

[scotty]

Thats not to bad then small little are they doing the other side or was it just that side that was affected .

[Scott.T]

Well after having the car taken away from me for probably only the 3rd time in 13 years, it's back better than ever :

[Ginola]

Nice one, looks like a good job.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Scott.T]

Scares from the 2009 Ring Trip 'moment' removed.
A little bit if history erased.

[NL03Scooby]

Looks like a very good job.

[RobEvo5]

Happy ?. Did they blend the paint into the rear quarter, paint all of rear quarter and blend into rear door or paint whole side of car ?.

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by RobEvo5

Happy ?. Did they blend the paint into the rear quarter, paint all of rear quarter and blend into rear door or paint whole side of car ?.

Just blended on rear quarter. No blending required into door or top of panel/boot lid.
My paint gauge shows me exactly where and it's very local.
I can detect the blend but then I know exactly where the repair was and being super critical.

I'm very happy with the local nature of the blend as I did not want to start chasing is around the panels.
Small marks on the car in the visinity that only I was aware of after 15 years of cleaning and polishing are still there, so this also confirms how local the work was.

I certainly recommend 'Ridgeway Auto Refinishers' who do all the work for Bartletts Seat and Garage on the Green (both owned by Richard Bartlett). In my opinion his stock is some of the best presented I know, on the 2nd hand market. Having had several cars from them Richard also knows how particular I am

[RobEvo5]

Great stuff and glad your happy, and MUCH better than scab's...

Glad you gave the old girl the love it deserves and you will enjoy it a good few more years.

[Scott.T]

A few pic's from this weekends breakfast blast.......

[NL03Scooby]

Looking amazing as always Scott, the boy takes some cracking photos too!

[Matt23]

Car looks stunning Scott and is 1 of the best looking classics around

[Ginola]

Lovely, like the shot with the paraglider


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Scott.T]

I thought it was about time I sorted out the noise levels of the iduction kit as I have never been a fan.

So knocked up a cardboard template for a lid for the induction kit heatsheld



Temporary fit with cable tie for a run up the road to see if it has had the desired effect



It has cut the noise down by quite a bit. With a better seal around the rest of the heatsheld we should be sorted.
I just need to have a think about a method of fitting the lid without too many extra holes (probably use trim clips), picking up on existing where possible

[Ginola]

Good stuff looks very neat too


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Banstead Stig]

Good use of CAD.

Neat solution. I find the noise of those kits a bit grating, so I can appreciate you looking for a fix.

Excuse the potential numpty question, but will it have any effect on the performance (good or bad)?

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Banstead Stig

Good use of CAD.

Neat solution. I find the noise of those kits a bit grating, so I can appreciate you looking for a fix.

Excuse the potential numpty question, but will it have any effect on the performance (good or bad)?

Without the ability to micro monitor the air volume and temperature it would be difficult to say.

There is a ram air tube in the wing feeding the filter so I don't think air volume will be a problem. Alot more capacity and more direct feed than the OE setup.

It will seal off better from the effects of hot underbonnet air though as despite the heatshield having a rubber seal around the top it didn't actually seal against the bonnet. It was moreally of an aesthetic.

[Scott.T]

Fuel Pumps groaning........

Noticed it when I got back from Supercar Siege but then it went back to normal volume. Seems to be a bit louder the last couple of days, so think it's best to change.
It's still fueling OK though on the wideband. Better to be safe than sorry me thinks.........

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Scott.T

Fuel Pumps groaning........

Noticed it when I got back from Supercar Siege but then it went back to normal volume. Seems to be a bit louder the last couple of days, so think it's best to change.
It's still fueling OK though on the wideband. Better to be safe than sorry me thinks.........

Ordered one through Monster Motorsport via Ebay, who are actually www.scoobyworld.co.uk via their other Non-Subaru specific trading name http://www.monstermotorsport.com/

£64.99 via their Ebay shop, £79 via their online shop.

[Rdlangy1]

Great work and bargain on the Fuel pump

[Scott.T]

Spent about 1/2 hour this evening starting to knock up some brackets for the induction kit cover :

One picks up on an existing mounting.
One will clamp between the heatshield and inner wing, and will be prevented from moving up by the wing edge.
One will require a small pair of self-tapers above the filter.

They will all get 3mm tapped holes drilled in them for the cover to be screwed down onto.
I will de-burr, round the edges and flic some paint over them tomorrow.

[Scott.T]

OH NO !!!!!! - It's started again.....the 'Spring Fettish'

[Scott.T]

For those that have not seen the induction kit hard pipe install before :

[BIG"E"]

[Ginola]

Oh no not more springs! Such a perv!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Scott.T]

Slight rethink on brackets meant no extra drilling into the existing bodywork or heatsheild. Therefore it can be removed without trace.

First fit :

[NL03Scooby]

Looking really tidy, will you add a coat of paint to it? Suspension springs are your thing, I have a soft spot for your use of fastenings.

[Scott.T]

[Steve_PPP]

Very neat and tidy

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Steve_PPP

Very neat and tidy

Cheers, a bit of gloss wrap is a lot quicker than painting.

Took it out for a run and it has reduced the noise down by a good few dB. It's not totally silent, but a lot more tolerable and actually makes the car a nicer drive and not too shouty on every squirt.
I can add a little rubber sound deadening on the inside if need be.

The heatshield does not toally seal on the inner wing, it never has. I did purchase some rubber seal but it's not big enough to take up the gap, hence rubber seals on the inside may be a neater solution.

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by BIG"E"

Fitted today. These are actually Prodrive Eibach Grey '20380FA890' springs (colour matched to STi Pink), which are the matched spring to my Prodrive WR Bilsteins.
I had fitted a loaner set previously and they gave a good ride and the static height was in-between the P1 Red's and the STi -30mm Pinks.

The pinks on the rear have always been on the cusp of being too low and I was finding the pinks looked a bit saggy butt from some angles of approach (due to the cut line of the arch).

The STi -30mm pinks have also actually dropped a further 5mm on the back compared to when new/nearly new.

The P1 Reds measured 645mm, STi Pink 632mm (now 627mm) and Prodrive WR 590 Grey's 639mm.

Piccy of the STI -30mm Pink Vs the Prodrive WR (although now pink)
The Prodrive is using 13mm gauge steel Vs 12mm on the STi Pink



On a little drive out today they felt as good a they did on the loaner set. They feel a lot more compliant than the Pinks, and seem to rebound and settle quicker, whereas the Pinks could float and get unsettled on undulating surfaces approaching 80mph. This may be due to the springs setting now allowing the shock to work within it's range, rather then being at the extents of it's range of damping.

At the end of the day they are the matched spring for the WR Bilstein, so got to be a good choice. I just need a matched front now.
The P1 Red's sat too high and although P1 Red's were sold as matched set on Prodrive WR later models, they were a compromise in order to achieve better minimum order quantities in conjunction with the P1 struts.

A set of 590 Greys on the front (P/N 20330fa890) would be good if I can find some. But the STi Pinks work well and certainly have much crisper turn-in than any of the other springs I have tried. They were noticeably better than Eibach Pro's and P1 Red's, hence why I have stuck with them. It's really down to what you want, crisp turn in or better ride/bump absorbing that a few extra 'mm' would give.

I really don't understand how some of these slammed coil-over setup's' work unless the valving technology is really 'trick', they must be dreadful on UK roads.

[Steve_PPP]

Originally Posted by Scott.T

I really don't understand how some of these slammed coil-over setup's' work unless the valving technology is really 'trick', they must be dreadful on UK roads.

Compared to my previous prodrive springs/ultra SR's setup, the Tein coilovers I have now are pretty crashy for UK roads, even on the softest setting. On my bumpy B road commute I can't push the car as hard as I used to, its just not compliant enough. So yes, you're right....

But then I don't use it much and its a second car. The coilovers come into their own when winding them to stiff and heading for the track

[555_Si]

I thought the Teins were OK on the road, but were needed on track compared to normal sprains and dampers. The kW v3 coilovrs on my Golf are in another league again, they can be very good on the road if setup correctly and good on track if adjusted, trouble is there is more to adjust and not as quick and easy as the Teins. I have 2 sets of BC's here for Scoobs and I am almost reluctant to fit them, i don't think I can get Tein super flex for gc8?

[SpecB]

I'm considering pulling the BC's off my Bug and going for a set of AGX's and H & R or Eibach springs. Ideally I'd like some Bilstein B8's (Make the Bug a Spec B) but they don't do them for the Impreza!
Especially if I end up using the bug as a road car more often.

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by Scott.T

For info and something we learnt along this spring journey. Thick gauge steel used on a spring doesn't necessarily mean it's a harder spring.
Thinner gauge can be used to make the spring stiffer if greater gaps are applied between coils if both design have the same static length.

In the image above you can see the spring on the left has large gaps but is thinner gauge.
Just think of it as a bent rod of steel. Where a straight rod would have no spring but put a coil or bend in it and it will start to react in a spring fashion.

Less coils = closer to a straight rod. More coils = more spring.

Both the above springs are rated at approx 170 pound but achieve it in different ways.

When fitted and at static ride height you may find 2 coils with a large gap and a 3rd coil with a small gap. This 3rd coils acts as a damper for light cruise but once lent on the gap reduces to zero and the wider spaced 2 coils come into effect with a stiffer rating.

The spring with more similarly spaced coils gives a more linear rate.

[Bolesroor]

Originally Posted by BlueBugEye

I'm considering pulling the BC's off my Bug and going for a set of AGX's and H & R or Eibach springs. Ideally I'd like some Bilstein B8's (Make the Bug a Spec B) but they don't do them for the Impreza!
Especially if I end up using the bug as a road car more often.

Have the AGX's and Eibach 's on the wagon, highly recommend

[Hongkongfooi]

Originally Posted by BlueBugEye

I'm considering pulling the BC's off my Bug and going for a set of AGX's and H & R or Eibach springs. Ideally I'd like some Bilstein B8's (Make the Bug a Spec B) but they don't do them for the Impreza!
Especially if I end up using the bug as a road car more often.

Bilstein b14 kit is meant to be great as my old blob runs these now

[scotty]

R

Originally Posted by 555_Si

I thought the Teins were OK on the road, but were needed on track compared to normal sprains and dampers. The kW v3 coilovrs on my Golf are in another league again, they can be very good on the road if setup correctly and good on track if adjusted, trouble is there is more to adjust and not as quick and easy as the Teins. I have 2 sets of BC's here for Scoobs and I am almost reluctant to fit them, i don't think I can get Tein super flex for gc8?

Sell the bc utter ****e on a classic and get a set of Tein Type Flex which have 16 way damping setting but if you fit EDFC kit then they go to 32 settings ive got mine set at 14 clicks feel good but on the twisties wow fecking amazing car hugs the road like it should i can fling it into corners better than i did with those rusty bc poo .

[Scott.T]

A few from the weekend after a run out to Dungeness. Apologies to those that may of already seen on Facebook

[Banstead Stig]

You parked on the shingles.

Looks great.