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  #51  
Old 25-04-2011, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Hongkongfooi View Post
Looking good Scott.....exhaust sound loud enough for you?
Still fully cat'd at the moment so still a bit muted. Certainly got more scooby soundtrack now though.Hopefully when decatted i should be back to the sound I had on the Classic.
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  #52  
Old 25-04-2011, 11:30 PM
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Very nice scott, nice to see those soppy pink STI stickers gone too
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  #53  
Old 25-04-2011, 11:37 PM
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Very nice scott, nice to see those soppy pink STI stickers gone too
well spotted...........
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  #54  
Old 26-04-2011, 07:50 AM
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I like them without the sti stickers as those that know know & thoses that dont know dont need to know you know! Know what i mean?
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  #55  
Old 26-04-2011, 09:38 AM
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Don't u just love aftermarket parts......

TSL Grp N comes with easy fit hangers that previoulsy used 'P' Clips. This current design is no different, but had no 'P'Clips, so a trip to the hardware store was required.

MilTek centre comes with bolts/spring fixings that are too big for the flange fitting on the OE cat pipe so the cat pipe needs drilling. They also come without nuts to fit on the end of the supplied bolts (how bazaar,not even on the packing list). These are a different size to OE so unless you have a draw of nuts (like me) that will be another trip to your local hardware store.

However don't bother as they end up too short, the spring mount prevents you from getting a nut on the end. So resorted to plain old M8 nuts/bolts and washers as I had done on my last scoob.....easy job made long and frustrating due to supplier not providing the correct hardware.

My centre pipe was exactly the same. Did the same as you and its been fine.
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  #56  
Old 28-04-2011, 09:30 PM
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Took the day off today as courier was coming to collect some old Scooby bits sold on ebay, so thought I may aswell change the springs.





Will update with picture of car once it's settled on the springs.
Done an oil change aswell before lunch and then built a wall in the afternoon, so bloody knackered now and not had a chance to give it a good drive yet.
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  #57  
Old 28-04-2011, 09:33 PM
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NOTE TO SELF : When the car is lowered and your doing an oil change/working under the bonnet....STOP KICKING/TREADING ON THE SPLITTER.......
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  #58  
Old 28-04-2011, 10:55 PM
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Supprised you didnt clean the springs before you put them on fella
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  #59  
Old 29-04-2011, 07:41 AM
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Rust & dirt Scott!!! Thats not like you
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  #60  
Old 30-04-2011, 01:36 PM
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Couple of quick shots.

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  #61  
Old 30-04-2011, 01:53 PM
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Looking good
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  #62  
Old 30-04-2011, 03:46 PM
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Really liking that
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  #63  
Old 01-05-2011, 12:19 PM
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Looks really good fella
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  #64  
Old 03-05-2011, 12:35 PM
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Nice to see you putting your stamp on it, and does look v.nice.

But have to say I did like you old classic as well and just as much.
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  #65  
Old 03-05-2011, 12:53 PM
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Liking that a lot Scott, looking very nice indeed
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  #66  
Old 10-05-2011, 10:12 PM
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Well this weekend, the car spent most of it's time up on bricks........





Took a quick snap this eveing......
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  #67  
Old 10-05-2011, 10:30 PM
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Looks much better...although 18's would be sweet!
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  #68  
Old 10-05-2011, 10:40 PM
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Looks much better...although 18's would be sweet!
Agree but those Rota GT-Forces don't come cheap and I gotta stop spending....
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  #69  
Old 11-05-2011, 12:08 AM
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them gold wheels anger got would look wicked on your car silversurfer
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  #70  
Old 11-05-2011, 01:08 AM
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Oh yes

Getting better and better every time we see it!
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  #71  
Old 11-05-2011, 09:33 AM
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I'm liking that mate.

Looking the dogs fella

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  #72  
Old 11-05-2011, 11:13 AM
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Fantastic Scott. I've gotta say, I still really like those wheels, they really suit the car and I prefered the way mine drove on 17's. If my 18's hadnt come about so cheaply I would still be on the 17's.

Oh, and looks like I had better clean mine for sunday!!
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  #73  
Old 11-05-2011, 06:08 PM
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Nice job, gotta have some balls to attempt a job like that and get a good result as you have!
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  #74  
Old 11-05-2011, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by majorscooby View Post
Nice job, gotta have some balls to attempt a job like that and get a good result as you have!
Done it many time before, especially on my old Ford RS alloys from years back.
Infact i did a set of Compomotives even before I had a licence, but didn't understand offset or PCD back then and found they didn't fit my car when I passed my test. Datsun (that's a Nissan for all you young'ns) fitment doesn't fit a Ford Escort DOH !!!
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  #75  
Old 11-05-2011, 06:41 PM
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Done it many time before, especially on my old Ford RS alloys from years back.
Infact i did a set of Compomotives even before I had a licence, but didn't understand offset or PCD back then and found they didn't fit my car when I passed my test. Datsun (that's a Nissan for all you young'ns) fitment doesn't fit a Ford Escort DOH !!!

LOL, I did exactly the same with a set of those on my MK 2. Never forget it, we dropped the car back down, thought 'awesome', and then tried to reverse it off the drive and it was going nowhere
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  #76  
Old 11-05-2011, 08:13 PM
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wheels look much better,just waiting for my m8 to do mine as well
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  #77  
Old 11-05-2011, 09:23 PM
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Scott - looks a great job on the wheels. They do suit the hawk.
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  #78  
Old 11-05-2011, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky View Post
Fantastic Scott. I've gotta say, I still really like those wheels, they really suit the car and I prefered the way mine drove on 17's. If my 18's hadnt come about so cheaply I would still be on the 17's.

Oh, and looks like I had better clean mine for sunday!!

its saturday steve....dont forget!
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  #79  
Old 12-05-2011, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Hongkongfooi View Post
its saturday steve....dont forget!

OH BUGGER!, Was it not a Sunday last year?. I had in my head it was Sunday. Thats going to be a problem then, as I am working. Will have to see what I can do..........
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Last edited by Lucky; 12-05-2011 at 11:50 AM.
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  #80  
Old 12-05-2011, 01:40 PM
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Will have to see what I can do..........
Its simple, play the 'boss' card and rope someone else into doing it
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  #81  
Old 12-05-2011, 08:58 PM
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Much better - Good choice of shade of grey, and at least you can do them again whenever you need to now.
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  #82  
Old 13-05-2011, 12:42 AM
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Looks very nice.
I am thinking you won't be leaving the shocks and inner arches the way they are for too long though.
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  #83  
Old 23-05-2011, 10:04 PM
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Was gonna get Defi's but can't justify the price/outlay at the moment.
But discovered last week that ProSport do a 60mm version.
I much prefer 60mm to 52mm and hadn't seen 60mm ProSport in the UK.

They only seem to be available in USA or Japan/Hong Kong.

For the money, I thought I'd give the Turbo Gauge a trial.
All the same features of the Defi, but without having to stash the controller somewhere. Same Black face when off and red illumination too as per the Defi BF.
If I'm happy I'll get Oil Temp and Pressure in a month or 2.

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  #84  
Old 23-05-2011, 10:08 PM
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I have the prosport Scott. They lie.
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  #85  
Old 23-05-2011, 10:10 PM
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most do by about 0.1bar, even Defi
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  #86  
Old 23-05-2011, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverSurfer View Post
Well this weekend, the car spent most of it's time up on bricks.
Thats where Scoobs spend most of there time anyway
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  #87  
Old 23-05-2011, 10:13 PM
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Thats where Scoobs spend most of there time anyway
Ooh....pot & kettle !!!!
Bricks are alot cheaper then a ramp at Sumo
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  #88  
Old 23-05-2011, 10:40 PM
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Yes thats true. The performance on the other hand is priceless

Last edited by Nige; 23-05-2011 at 10:42 PM.
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  #89  
Old 24-05-2011, 11:57 AM
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I have been happy with my prosprorts. Exactly how accurate they are am not sure, I think the boost overreads slightly, but they look good!!
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Last edited by Lucky; 24-05-2011 at 02:45 PM.
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  #90  
Old 27-05-2011, 11:17 AM
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excellent work so far scott
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  #91  
Old 01-06-2011, 10:30 PM
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Love the darker STI wheels on the hawkeye, although I may be slightly biased

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  #92  
Old 01-06-2011, 11:27 PM
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Love the darker STI wheels on the hawkeye, although I may be slightly biased


V.nice, did you tint the headlights yourself ??
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  #93  
Old 01-06-2011, 11:55 PM
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V.nice, did you tint the headlights yourself ??
Yep, although they're de-chromed rather than tinted, the lens is still clear. Took the headlamps off, undid the fixings and with the help of an electric oven managed to separate the lenses from the back part of the headlamp assembly. Painted the back section black and put it all back together again. Takes a bit of time but not too hard to do.
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  #94  
Old 01-06-2011, 11:59 PM
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Yep, although they're de-chromed rather than tinted, the lens is still clear. Took the headlamps off, undid the fixings and with the help of an electric oven managed to separate the lenses from the back part of the headlamp assembly. Painted the back section black and put it all back together again. Takes a bit of time but not too hard to do.
Cool, was onmy to-do list.

There seem to be conflicting reports as to whether you have to take the bumper off and also whether the hawkeye lights need to go in the oven ??
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  #95  
Old 02-06-2011, 10:36 AM
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Cool, was onmy to-do list.

There seem to be conflicting reports as to whether you have to take the bumper off and also whether the hawkeye lights need to go in the oven ??
Yes and yes - bumper needs to come off to remove the headlamps and the headlamps need to be oven baked for 5 minutes to heat up the sealant to get them apart.
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  #96  
Old 02-06-2011, 08:44 PM
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silversufer,there is a thread on nasioc about painting you headlights with out taking bumper off. its called HOW TO CLEAR O6 HEADLIGHTS AND PAINT

i brought zunesport upper grills 4 my hawkeye and been trying 2 fit them,but just looked at your car car and it looks like yours is different 2 mine.so i need sti mouldings
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  #97  
Old 02-06-2011, 10:59 PM
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silversufer,there is a thread on nasioc about painting you headlights with out taking bumper off. its called HOW TO CLEAR O6 HEADLIGHTS AND PAINT

i brought zunesport upper grills 4 my hawkeye and been trying 2 fit them,but just looked at your car car and it looks like yours is different 2 mine.so i need sti mouldings
Cheers mate, I did reada few threads on nasioc, but not that one so will give it a look.
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  #98  
Old 03-06-2011, 12:43 AM
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your welcome let me no if is easy,because if u muck it up its about £800 for second hand lights

i need 2 get these so my mesh grills fit


they want £150 on ebay,which is taking the piss i think

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  #99  
Old 03-06-2011, 12:00 PM
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your welcome let me no if is easy,because if u muck it up its about £800 for second hand lights

Which is why i've left mine alone!!
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Old 19-06-2012, 11:06 AM
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Headlight Mods :

This is a modification I identified as a must have even before I bought the Hawkeye STI. It has taken since March to do the research, find the time and make sure my wife was out so I could use the oven

Alot of stories about it being much harder then the Blobeye modification, that you have to take the bumper of and the headlights are very expensive if you break them......but I thought in Top Gear style 'How Hard Can It Be' !!!!!!

Before Modification :


1. Mask up around edge of headlight and around edges of centre and left/right grills. These need to come out to gain access to the headlight mounting bolts.

2. Remove large trim clips from top edge of bumper, along slam panel.

3. Remove small trim clips holding grills in place, and 1 small trim clip on each top edge of headlight.

4. Remove centre grill by placing hand down behind and releasing 4 plastic clips, 2 easg side.

5. Remove left and right hand grills in a similar fashion. They are a bit of a fiddle but they will come out and you will realise why masking the bumper is a good idea.

6. Remove the single M6 bolt from the top of the headlight where it bolts to the slam panel.

7. Remove the 2 M6 bolts, 2 M6 nuts and 1 trim clip that hold the headlight in place that are located behind the grill you have just removed.

8. Now comes the removal of the light. Give it a wiggle and a tug on the outer/wing edge. It should partly pop out (If anyone has removed the sidelight on a classic they will be familiar with the pin/clip that hold it into the wing retainer). Tilt the light forward and try to get it under the slam panel as far as possible, making sure the mounting bracket that was un-bolted previously draws of it's mounting bolts . The light will not fully come out like this, but once it is as far as possible place your hand behind the light and lift up, you should now be able to see between the bottom of the light and the bumper to see what's stopping it coming forward. Basically nothing is stopping at apart from the base of the light just touching the top edge of the appature/bumper lip. A twist and a shove from behind should pop it out, all the time making sure the mounting bracket hasn't managed to slip back onto it's mount bolts.

9. At this stage it will be partly out bar from the loom connector. Disconnect these and your done. Steps 1 - 9 above took me approx 30 mins, alot quicker then i thought it would take.



10. Repeat the above for the other light. I managed to get this one out alot quicker after learning on the other side.



Looks quite cool don't it



11. Retire to the comfort of the kitchen breakfast bar



12. Remove the 5 self-tapping screws from the rear of the light.

13. I also removed the Ballast resistor that's screwed to the bottom of the housing, as didn't want to risk damaging that in the oven. Remove the 3 screws holding this in place and disonnect the cable harness from it.

14. Set oven to 100 DegC and timer to 10 mins, place light in oven on baking tray.



Yes I know the oven door needs cleaning, but that's not my department.......

15. Remove after 10 minutes and leaver open the headlight with a large flat blade screwdriver, it comes apart wuite easy. I started at the bottom incase the screwdriver damaged/marked the plastics. It did make small marks but by the time you work round to the top edge which will be visible when re-fitted, it comes off easier and hence doesn't mark the plastic. Once it is loose and you have a gap one end it can be pulled apart by hand. Cut or catch the excess sealant as you go.



16. You now have 2 halves.



17. Put rear section to one side after tapping the stringy/excess sealant roughly back in place. Do the same with the front lense.

18. Remove the self-tapper screws that hold the refelctor in place on the front lense. Then remove the reflector



19. I then masked a ring around the HID apature to maintain a chrome ring. Some people spray the whole reflector black, other spray a coloured rings around the HID. But I decide to stick with chrome.

20. Spray reflector with colour of your choice. I used Satin Black Plasti-kote.

21. Remove masked HID ring and ready for re-fitting



22. Refit refelctor into lense.

23. To soften the sealant prior to refitting I placed both halves back in the over for 5 mins at 100DegC.

24. Remove from oven and while still hot quickly push two halves together and screw back in place.

25. Refit ballast resistor......job done in about 30 mins including paint (dried with hair drier)

Compared lights :



26. Repeat for other side.

Took approx 2 hours to remove dismantle, paint and re-assemble both lights.
All back in the car, fitting back was easier then taking out, although highly recommend the use of plenty of masking tape to protect the surrounding area's.




And another little mod whils I was there....
Been trying to De-Pink the front end and failed a few times with re-painting the STI badge to my satisfation (quite tricky due to the bi-colour embossed badge).
Decided to by an aftermarket Red badge.


Found by pure fluke that the one I ordered had the 'Red' bits stuck to the 'Black' bit. A sharp blade and some cotton managed to seperate the 2.


Re-Paint the 'Red' bits


Re-Fit, while Grill was off the car

A few more pic's out in daylight.




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