#1
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Cleaning my blob
Had a quick nose through the detailing threads basically I've had the blob about a month and its in need of a good clean. Its full of swirls small scratches etc. I cant warrant spending a monkey on a detail (£500 buys a part for the brat) so some recommendations please on products and the best way to do it....Never used a clay bar so I presume they come in different grades.....I'll buy a mop at some point and do it properly or pay someone.
Basically just want to get it clean and waxed and get the dead bodies etc off. Thanks in advance chaps..... |
#2
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Depends if you want off the shelf products or want something abit better
The stuff i use is from here http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/ Its a really good site and the people on there are more than happy to help out with anything. If you want to give it a decent clean then id start with these: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/washin.../prod_165.html http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/detail.../prod_306.html http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polish.../prod_166.html http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/ch.../prod_337.html http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wheels.../prod_499.html Everyone has their own opinions on what to use and how to do things but this will definatly get you started and will last the best part of a year just doing your scoob. In terms of best way to do it just take your time and make sure you constantly knead the clay, you can seriously damage the paint with the clay and make things 10x worse.
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#3
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If your not doing 100% this time, I personaly would suggest buying and using a Glaze before you wax
A glaze will hide the appearance of small scratches and swirls. Its a step that is often missed but creates great depth and finish when used after final polish and before waxing |
#4
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Quote:
Why does the clay require constant kneading ? To keep it soft and pliable? Also what grade of clay, presumably medium to fine ......Also thanks for the link, I'd rather use decent kit than a tin of T Cut and a Tea Towel. I'm amazed at the products now available.....Back in celly land all you could get a few grades of cutting compound and a tin of Turtle Wax..... Just had a quick look at the products what about cloths and mitts etc.....and a drying towel? Chuck my leather in the bin? Last edited by old93ra; 15-03-2011 at 08:12 PM. |
#5
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Id go for a medium grade, if you go fine you could be there forever and a day trying to work on one panel, and a harsh would remove virtually any contaminant but unless youve got a orbital or rotary to use afterwoods the finish will be smooth to the touch but look awfull in the sunlight.
Basically clay needs kneading because as you work accros the paint the clay picks up any imbeded particles that bond to the paint and cause a rough surface. Once there transfered to the clay there now on the surface of the clay thats working on the next section of paint. The clay is still removing particles from the next section of paint but at the same time the particles from the previous section will be causing damage to the clear coat ie marring, swirl marks or even bigger scratches. Kneading the clay after every section brings a clean face to the clay to start afresh on the next section of paint with minimal damage. It also cuts down on the amount of swirl marks saving work later on, and makes the clay more manageable too. Once clayed youll see the difference in the reflection, but youll be able to get better with a machine polisher, alot of polishes and waxes have fillers in them that will reduce swirl marks for a while but eventually theyll come back, Theres some really good machine kits out there that will get rid of them Heres the one i went for, done plenty of cars with it with great results, can also use it for normal waxing and polishing too http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polish.../prod_409.html
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#6
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#7
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Just had a look at the Merc, came out really well. Suprised you got the bonnet that good without a machine. But also your thread is the perfect step by step guide
Oh what about glaze mentioned by admin? |
#8
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I did use a machine on the merc fella you can get the same results by hand but it'll take hours for each panel, admin is correct if you use a glaze it adds added depth to the finish on the paint, I don't normally add a separate glaze unless I'm working by machine because of the swirl marks if I'm getting rid of them I use some thing like a poorboys glaze but if I'm working by hand I normally find that Peres53 wax gives the same sort if depth and wet look as a glaze
Everyone has there own technique and preferred products, there's no wrong way of doing things it's just down to personal preference
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#9
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That is one of my Mercs. Still looks as good now
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#10
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It seemed to impress people on the merc 190 forum after...
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#11
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Possibly a numpty question , but when would you apply the glaze?
After the polish (Chemical Guys all in one) but before the wax or before the polish? Not sure if my polish provides glaze already? Cheers |
#12
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Glaze after the final polish and before the wax, for best results
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I like this stuff Cherry glaze, autosmart 5litres will last for ages and gives excellent results. Also works really well as a top up, quick detailer As Andy says previously, its getting the right products to suit your car paint and your own ability, limitations. I use a combination of Sonus, Menzerna, Autosmart for the main clean.... |
#13
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My dad used to get the AutoSmart stuff at trade price when he was in the trade. Really good stuff. Glass cleaner was the mutts nuts, shame it left a powder trail
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#14
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Its well worth investing in some decent products to take care of your car, if you do a decent clean from scratch at the begining of the better weather, it may take a couple of days but afterwoods all youll have to do is maintain it
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#15
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Well ordered the products recommended and some microfibre cloths, drying towel some interior stuff and I'm off.....Will it be decent weather on Sunday?
Many thanks for the advice |
#16
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Excellent fella, get some pics up if the weathers anygood at the weekend, im hopeing for the same got another car lined up for sunday
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#17
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These came yesterday
Just a quick one order of play Wash it Clay it Polish it Wax it See what the weather brings, a dry day will do |
#18
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That little lot should do it!. Show us the results fella
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10 Years of Scoobies:04 WRX SL, 06 HAWK STI, 97 JDM WRX STI WAGON, 05 WRX STI, MK3 FOCUS RS, now Porsche Cayman S |
#19
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Thats a good Dad... cleaning the car for your Son
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"We're here for a good time, not a long time...." Colin McRae MBE 1968-2007 |
#20
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Thats right James.....he'd take it down the bloody Poles
On the subject of cleaning I got 2/3rd done .......Dont know when Rob last cleaned it but I had to clay some panels 3 times. Just waiting for photobucket to upload my efforts Last edited by old93ra; 20-03-2011 at 06:18 PM. |
#21
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OK here's the results so far.....Still need to polish 2 front wings front bumper 2 n/s doors, then wax it all do the glass the interior and the exhaust.
Started at 12 and by 5.30 the ambient tempreture was dropping so called it a day. Very impessed with all the products I used, the Bilbury wheel cleaner is amazing kit. The claying I got used to pretty quick you can feel the clay meeting resistance when there's lumps of crud on a panel. Once I'd got everypanel smooth it was time for the polish....chemical boys as recommended real nice stuff could have done with a machine though.....But comes off real easy leaves a good shine. My car does need a mop over...... So before someone says: Here you go.......... BeFore After before before before UNTIL...... AFTER SHOTS Bonnets done but wing isnt More importantly HOW do I clean this? I hate dirty engine bays So thats todays adventure, many thanks to Andy for the advice, product list and supplier Top banana ....thats what clubs are all about! Appreciate it |
#22
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I dont feel so bad with how my engines looking now
Good job mate, need to give mine a good clean and clay bar
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"We're here for a good time, not a long time...." Colin McRae MBE 1968-2007 |
#23
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Hi Collin good job,looking so good.Engine bay will be harder to clean..
Jura |
#24
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Thanks Jura .....not looking forward to it..Trying to work out the best way without dismantling everything..
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#25
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Colin somewhere i've seen guide how to do,without removing all stuff,i will try to find this link.
Jura |
#26
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Here i go here is few links
http://www.polishedswiss.com/#/engine-bay/4529645625 http://bbs.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-g...ay-detail.html jura |
#27
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give northdowns a pm on ss his engine by is like new and he really does know what is best to use under there
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#28
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Autoglym engine & machine cleaner is brilliant for cleaning the engine
I finished it off with some 99p shine stuff This took about 10 minutes Will dig some pics out later of my scoob engine after a clean |
#29
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Your scoob is looking good
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#30
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Pic of my old scoob engine, again, using AutoGlym engine & machine cleaner & a can of cheap silicon spray
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#31
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With engine bays i got lee aka (chunk) to help do mine, but product wise it depends how far you want to go, if you want a good base to start with get it degreased and steam cleaned then its just keeping on top of it maintenance wise. These are the products i use and have never done me wrong http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine.../prod_191.html http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine.../prod_749.html http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine.../prod_751.html http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/interi.../prod_328.html Also Autoglym engine cleaner is an excellent one to use cuts through virtually anything and goes along way too If you get the above itll last for ages and get a good finish everytime. You could allways go down the silicone route, me and lee used autoglym engine cleaner on my engine bay and used silicon spray to finish off the plastic bits. The silicon spray is quick and easy to use and lasts a long time, its great for shows and is cheap. There are a few draw backs to it though, it stays wet virtually the whole time its on the car, its not really a bad point but its slightly greasey if you touch it and it attracts dust like a magnet. Still gives an excellent finish though as long as you keep ontop of it. One product to avoid is: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine.../prod_106.html It does clean metal, but keep it away from chrome or anything shini, it dosent give a good finish and leaves chrome with a misty effect. The autoglym polish is alot better and easier to use Hope it helps matey
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#32
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Ah, you bought Robs old scoob
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#33
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I did pity he didn't keep it clean.....main reason I bought it was a known one owner car, I've decatted it and put a VF48 on it. Goes alright plenty of mid range which will do.
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#34
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What is the situation with steam cleaning on these? Do all the electrics eat themselves or is it a do it and wait a day or till its dry then start it up? The silcone spray Like you say attracts everything yukko. I'll have a look at the other products you've listed Andy...nice one |
#35
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Wonder if he'll see it as a challange and offer to do it His engine bay is unbelievable like new. I'll post something up on ss for him.
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#36
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Anyways, engine's are piss easy, as I've already shown in my thread on SS.
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ex Black 2006 Forester STI SurreyScoobies Dude, Tent Pervert, Wannabe Ninja, General Nobber, Part Time Twat, Total Piss-Artiste. |
#37
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Along with the products Andy suggests, well worth investing in some Aerospace 303 and some G101 and Krill The G101 is an excellent all rounder
You could also do with some Tyre dressing |
#38
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Quote:
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ex Black 2006 Forester STI SurreyScoobies Dude, Tent Pervert, Wannabe Ninja, General Nobber, Part Time Twat, Total Piss-Artiste. |
#39
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I will get on there, Promise
Do you use the Megs aswell? |
#40
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I knew it was long shot Rich..... I'd better get on with it then
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#41
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For engine bay cleaning..? No I use R222.
Cleaning your engine on SS available here: http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acata...ash-cat19.html
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ex Black 2006 Forester STI SurreyScoobies Dude, Tent Pervert, Wannabe Ninja, General Nobber, Part Time Twat, Total Piss-Artiste. |
#42
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Thanks chaps for all the advice and product links.....yes the tyres I'm on it
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#43
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Got a bit more done this afternoon, starting come together. Just interior TYRES and engine bay oh and exhaust....
Now its clean I can see plenty of imperfections......needs a mop. |
#44
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Looks good
Once the engine is clean, its a lot easier to keep it clean |
#45
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DAS6 polisher
The Sonus or Menzerna kits are well worth the investment Car would come up lovely with either of the kits Starting to look the part already though |
#46
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I'll be giving the 190 an engine in the next few weeks, so i will post pics
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#47
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Have you picked a tyre dressing yet? i use these http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wheels.../prod_103.html http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wheels.../prod_340.html I dont really use the sprays because you allways get abit of overspray on the wheels and it acts like silicon spray attracting brakeduust and dirt. Plus the applictor pad gets in the groove between the wheel and the tyre and the gel smells REALLY good lol
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#48
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Andy, try using the endurance.. small ammount in a paint lid (or similar) and use a small paint brush
Best i've found so far |
#49
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As it happens just ordered this lot.....
Order Inventory: Product: Chemical Guys - Glossworkz Glaze Quantity: 1 Product Code: CHET21 Price: £11.62 Product: Meguiars Even Coat Applicators - Pkg/2 Quantity: 1 Product Code: X3080 Price: £4.96 Product: Meguiars Gold Class Bug & Tar Remover Quantity: 1 Product Code: G10716 Price: £5.79 Product: Microfibre WASH+ Quantity: 1 Product Code: CWS201 Price: £5.79 Product: Poorboys Natural Look Dressing Quantity: 1 Product Code: POO810 Price: £9.12 Product: Chemical Guys - Orange Degreaser Quantity: 1 Product Code: cld106 Price: £5.79 Product: Meguiars Last Touch Quantity: 1 Product Code: D-5105 Price: £20.79 Product: Meguiars High Gloss Tyre gel Quantity: 1 Product Code: G7516 Price: £7.46 Product: Trim & Tyre Dressing Applicator Quantity: 2 Product Code: TRIX7 Price: £4.92 Product: 303 Aerospace Protectant Quantity: 1 Product Code: 303410 Price: £12.46 Product: Chemical Resistant Sprayer Quantity: 3 Product Code: CHE26 Price: £4.88 Couldnt make my mind up on a mop but I'll have another look at the 2 you recommended |
#50
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I did used to do that but after a while every paint brush i used kept on loosing its birssels on the wheels, not sure why, i didnt press hard at or agressivly at all, ive also tried the applicator pads but these were abit big for tyres, the sponge applicator is the best ive found so far but im allways on the look out for new techniques and tips
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