ALK and Blob wide arch shocks??

[SamSTI]

A couple of questions guys:

I've been looking at getting an anti lift kit but was just wondering is it really worth it?? as I will only be doing 1 or 2 track days a year and I'm not really a hard driver on the road.

Also does anyone know where you can get uprated shocks for a wide arch Blob?? all the ones i've seen are only for 2001- 2004, I want to upgrade mine before I put on my tein springs on. Just future proofing the car really as my oem rear shocks have already been replaced once due to knocking and the car's only done 23000 lol.

Thanks in advance
Sam

[Scooby_Greg]

I had the Perrin ALK on my blob. I loved the change it made - the turn in felt much crisper - some of this may have been due to the revised geo.

[Hongkongfooi]

Larkspeed do a range of shocks bilstein and koni....why didnt you get coilovers if you were going for shocks as well?

alk well worth the relative short outlay imho. I have it on the wagon as well

[SamSTI]

Originally Posted by Scooby_Greg

I had the Perrin ALK on my blob. I loved the change it made - the turn in felt much crisper - some of this may have been due to the revised geo.

Thanks Greg, good to know.

Originally Posted by Hongkongfooi

Larkspeed do a range of shocks bilstein and koni....why didnt you get coilovers if you were going for shocks as well?

alk well worth the relative short outlay imho. I have it on the wagon as well

Thanks Tim and yeah coilovers would of been the way forward in the beginning but this is me your talking too.... and I'm a bit backwards lol

[Ginola]

I have an eibach 22mm adjustable rear arb on the back on mine (set to the stiffest setting) a roll center correction kit on the front (HardRace), this made a world of difference to the coil overs which on there own at low ride heights made the car prone to bump steer.
Have not yet fitted an ALK kit.. I have about 4.9 degrees of caster already, although it will give more.. it will also slightly increase dive+lift..even though they call it an anti lift kit??? go figure,
I had the same problem Sam finding nice shocks for it when I needed to replace mine for knocking hence going down the coil over route,
I might fit an ALK kit after Christmas, but not at the top of my priorities list at the moment as quite happy with the way the car handles.

It might be worth giving Ayln at AS performance a call, or the guys at Camskill and ask about some up rated KYB's.. Bilstiens from an RB320 will fit also,

I'm sure there will be something available upgrade shock wise these days.

.... Or sell the springs and get some coilovers!! :P think I've linked you these before

[SamSTI]

Thanks Dave, I will be getting some arbs next month, I was going to go 24mm rear or is this not needed??. I've not thought about a roll center correction kit to be honest, will have to look into that I think.

If I can't find any uprated shocks (ill phone asperformance this week sometime) then ill prob stick the springs on my oem shocks till they give up the ghost, then I will go coilovers

[Ginola]

Originally Posted by SamSTI

Thanks Dave, I will be getting some arbs next month, I was going to go 24mm rear or is this not needed??. I've not thought about a roll center correction kit to be honest, will have to look into that I think.

If I can't find any uprated shocks (ill phone asperformance this week sometime) then ill prob stick the springs on my oem shocks till they give up the ghost, then I will go coilovers

Dono if 24mm is needed or not really, I think this is kind of a personal thing, I know Ian runs 24mm on the back of his and is quite happy with it, I cant remember what setting he runs it on, I got a 22mm to go with the standard front one as a friend had a job lot from Prodrive so got mine brand new for 80 quid!! (It's the same rear adjustable fitted to the RB320) I just bought uprated bushes for it from Ayln

Just getting the springs on and getting a decent alignment done will make a world of difference to the way it drives, but try to get what you want done before alignment as its not too cheap to keep having them done

[SamSTI]

Originally Posted by Ginola

Dono if 24mm is needed or not really, I think this is kind of a personal thing, I know Ian runs 24mm on the back of his and is quite happy with it, I cant remember what setting he runs it on, I got a 22mm to go with the standard front one as a friend had a job lot from Prodrive so got mine brand new for 80 quid!! (It's the same rear adjustable fitted to the RB320) I just bought uprated bushes for it from Ayln

Just getting the springs on and getting a decent alignment done will make a world of difference to the way it drives, but try to get what you want done before alignment as its not too cheap to keep having them done

Interesting... so you haven't got an uprated arb on the front, just the rear??

Lol yeah I'm getting everything I want first, then installing it all together followed by geo.

[555_Si]

if changing front to 22mm I would go 24mm on back, I got a fixed rate 22mm front and an adjustable 24mm rear, that way I can tune it in a little. I have mine on hardest on rear and I think it needs taking back one step to soften it up slightly.

ALK's are more necessary if you go low. but I think can probably benefit from being done anyway. especially as the bushes might be getting worn anyway, I did alk, coilovers, poly bushes and arb's all at same time including bump steer balljoints and track ends or what ever they are called. so I can't tell you what worked and what didn't, though I am well happy with the results. just needs some fine tuning on the setup now.

[Ginola]

Originally Posted by SamSTI

Interesting... so you haven't got an uprated arb on the front, just the rear??

Lol yeah I'm getting everything I want first, then installing it all together followed by geo.

Yups just the rear, makes it nice and pointy,I think it needs to have some roll.. makes it predictable even if its minimal otherwise it will just grip and grip... and then SNAP! I'd rather it lets me know a little first.

At the moment it has a slight tendency to over-steer, but only slight, controllable on the throttle, it turns in quickly, and grips well, you can balance the car quite well, adjusting the center diff when your really pushing on lets you control things quite nicely and adjust the over-steer/under-steer balance a little, just remember to put it back to auto or fully open when your park!.

I think if you where to upgrade the front, say 22mm, then you would want 24 on the back just to give you that balance.. although some people prefer to have 24 front and back! its a bit of personal thing really, what you feel comfortable with.. just start with upgrading the rear first.. if you get an adjustable 24mm one you can always run it on soft setting, which will probably make it something like a 22mm one anyway?.. I'm not an expert! I could be wrong and 22mm might be more than enough!

Im sure there is a massive debate thread somewhere on 22b and scabbynet about this

[SamSTI]

Originally Posted by Wagon_Si

if changing front to 22mm I would go 24mm on back, I got a fixed rate 22mm front and an adjustable 24mm rear, that way I can tune it in a little. I have mine on hardest on rear and I think it needs taking back one step to soften it up slightly.

ALK's are more necessary if you go low. but I think can probably benefit from being done anyway. especially as the bushes might be getting worn anyway, I did alk, coilovers, poly bushes and arb's all at same time including bump steer balljoints and track ends or what ever they are called. so I can't tell you what worked and what didn't, though I am well happy with the results. just needs some fine tuning on the setup now.

Thanks Simon, I think I will go for the alk then.

[SamSTI]

Originally Posted by Ginola

Yups just the rear, makes it nice and pointy,I think it needs to have some roll.. makes it predictable even if its minimal otherwise it will just grip and grip... and then SNAP! I'd rather it lets me know a little first.

At the moment it has a slight tendency to over-steer, but only slight, controllable on the throttle, it turns in quickly, and grips well, you can balance the car quite well, adjusting the center diff when your really pushing on lets you control things quite nicely and adjust the over-steer/under-steer balance a little, just remember to put it back to auto or fully open when your park!.

I think if you where to upgrade the front, say 22mm, then you would want 24 on the back just to give you that balance.. although some people prefer to have 24 front and back! its a bit of personal thing really, what you feel comfortable with.. just start with upgrading the rear first.. if you get an adjustable 24mm one you can always run it on soft setting, which will probably make it something like a 22mm one anyway?.. I'm not an expert! I could be wrong and 22mm might be more than enough!

Im sure there is a massive debate thread somewhere on 22b and scabbynet about this

Interesting stuff, its given me plenty to think about

Thanks again Dave

[SpecB]

The thicker the bar the flatter the car corners, the difference between front and rear is what affects the cars balance, bigger rear vs front will pull the balance backwards and reduce the designed safe under steer tendency of the car, even stiffer on the rear and you move to over steer.

I think my Eibach seat are 23 front and 25 rear. There are guys who have removed the front ARB all together!

[C. J.]

Get 24mm front and rear with solid links , it works .
Ring Alan @ as performance , great service , advice and prices
What most people forget is they are " adjustable " .
If there is ever a arb you disconnect it's the rear when it's soaking wet or on a cuircuit like the one at oulton park that simulates gravel .