Broke my scoob already, why or why did I sell the M3 :(

[RobEvo5]

Only been back it in 3 days and broken something already - Went for a spirited drive Monday night, and soon after started idling rough and not running right. Done some preliminary checks round Scotts quickly the other night and nothing jumping up (cheers mate). So off to possibly chase my tail now, plug change is first up, then leads, then coil. Then...........................Feck, Arse,,xxxx.x.x.xx.x.xx Break the fecking car and get a decent reliable car something like a nice like a E46 M3 would be perfect.

lol Rob
Life would be boring though.

Good luck with fixing the old girl.

[RobEvo5]

Tis true and wouldnt mind so much if I at least had a few weeks/months out of it before I had to start putting my head under the bonnet. Well changed plugs tonight and no joy.! Can't put a finger on it, but got a bad feeling about this.

Maf has already been checked and cleared as OK, all hoses and clamps check so Leads and coil pack next to check. After that its compression test time.

[Scott.T]

Not good then Rob, did any of the plugs look any different ?

Are you sure it's just on idle.

I've got 2 spare fuel pressure reg's if you need to try them.
Could try dicsonnecting the fuel pressure reg vacum hose, blocking the pipe on the inlet. then see if the idle smooths out due to the pressure reg running at atmospheric rather then vacum pressure.

Lambda was reading OK and idle didn't smooth out when disconnected.

Could try cleaning idle control valve.

Disconnect plug leads one at a time and carefully listen to see if you can isolate anything to one piston.

The trick to determine which pot is slaping with piston slap was to do the above. Whan the slap noise goes thats the piston that needs sorting.

Have you got an old top mount kicking aaround. Could bung that on to isolate FMIC and allit's pipework.

[RobEvo5]

It seems to drive OK and still pulls like a train, but could well be more than just idle. When you increase the revs when static you can still hear the miss running on the engine. Full chat it seems fine.

Plugs all seemed Ok within reason if not a little black from running a but rich.

Cleaning out idle speed worth a try, but doesn't seem characteristic to the sort of problems I have seen on other makes of cars when these have failed.

Will have to look at the FPR to understand what your suggesting, but getting to the point I'll try anything especially if it doesn't mean buying bits or replacements. Just to find out that wasn't the problem.

[Jolly Green Monster]

Dump valve sticking after little use, then big use.

[RobEvo5]

Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster

Dump valve sticking after little use, then big use.

Thanks for the input Simon and all advice, pointers things to try welcome. But DV piston seems to be opening and closing freely enough when you disconnect/reconnect the vacum when on idle, so think thats OK. ?

Disconnected plug lead no 2 from coil pack end and nearly took me arm off and got spikey hair now, but apart from the natural arcing from coil to nearest earth the running/idle didn't change at all. So possibly lead No.2 - Fingers crossed

Anyone in the Hastings, Eastbourne area got a spare set of leads and a MY99 coil pack I could borrow for diagnostics ?.

[darryl.k]

Mine done some thing similar to what you descibing, I replaced all the coil packs to find they had perished and cracked.

[RobEvo5]

Looks like the award goes for Scott for this one.... or at least for thinking along the lines of fueling and fuel pressure regulator.

Replaced leads tonight, total waste of time and money.

But of all people the misses noticed a patch of something on the floor at the back of the car. Pop my head under and fuel is pissing out from both hoses that go to the tank. Even when I stop the engine its dripping due to the pressure left in the system.

Perhaps a post for general mechanics now, but next question to me is what could be causing this ?. I could try replacing these hoses which seem to be special OEM clip on hoes with some fuel hose and good jubilie clips done up super tight, but this might be masking a problem elsewhere.

This leak could be caused by excessive pressure ?? if so what would cause it ?.

Good news at least I have clear direction to focus my attentions.

[Scott.T]

The engine is running slightly lean at idle so you may not be getting the flow required if alot of fuel is leaking.

Fuel pressure increases linearly with boost pressure i.e 1bar boost, increases the fuel pressure from 3bar to 4bar.
If you remove the fuel prsuure reg vacum hose (and block it off on the inlet manifold side) the fuel pressure should rise by approx 0.2/0.3bar this may be enough to smooth the idle. This should help diagnose that fuelling at idle, due to leak, is a little lean.

[RobEvo5]

You could fill a mug up of pretrol in about 5 mins, is how bad its leaking at idle... So think I will try some new hose and jubliee clips for starters. Will upload a picture of were its leaking in a minute.

The amount of fuel leaking must be affecting the flow and idle IMO. Just slightly worried why these hoses have now decided to leak.

Pressure / blockage elswhere it was concerns me at the moment.

[RobEvo5]

Subaru part codes for the 2 cleaner looking rubber pipes would be handy if anyone can help, as these has a clip/connector type arrangement at one end. Else I will just use some standard hose and jubliees.

[Scott.T]

I would use 'stainless' jubilee clips and new fuel hose (APS sell it cheap enough, as got some for a job at work a few weeks back). Not standard jubilee clips that are zink coated as these will rust through and fall off (but prob not while you own the car )
You'll probably have to cut rather then pull the old hoses off as they get stuck to the metal pipe.

[Jolly Green Monster]

make sure it is fuel injection hose.. not carb etc..

check the tank vent.. if you remove the fillter cap is the hiss normal ?

tank vent runs from there to engine bay.. thinner of the 3 pipes near fuel filter to inlet manifold and then to carbon canister.. check the one way valve is the correct way around at the carbon canister... could be building up a vaccum in the tank.. but probably just a corroded pipe..

Simon

[RobEvo5]

Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster

make sure it is fuel injection hose.. not carb etc..

check the tank vent.. if you remove the fillter cap is the hiss normal ?

tank vent runs from there to engine bay.. thinner of the 3 pipes near fuel filter to inlet manifold and then to carbon canister.. check the one way valve is the correct way around at the carbon canister... could be building up a vaccum in the tank.. but probably just a corroded pipe..

Simon

Been working on it all day, and good news is I have solved the fuel leak, as you say simon it was just a corroded pipe. But the running issue is still there.

Moved onto removing the bailey DV in favour of OEM recirc which was a job I wanted to do anyhow, but that hasn't helped either.

Cleaned out Idle speed control valve which was filthy, but that didn't help.

Have already changed plugs and leads without success.

I have noticed the running is worse and more pronounced when cold. So back to thinking along the line of electrical. And altough the Lambda was clearly doing something as voltages were moving, perhaps the lambda, or coil pack. ?.

Was also wondering if there is a cold start valve on scoobs ?. Whats the black thing just below the ISCV ?.

Cheers

[Scott.T]

Originally Posted by RobEvo5

Been working on it all day, and good news is I have solved the fuel leak, as you say simon it was just a corroded pipe. But the running issue is still there.

Moved onto removing the bailey DV in favour of OEM recirc which was a job I wanted to do anyhow, but that hasn't helped either.

Cleaned out Idle speed control valve which was filthy, but that didn't help.

Have already changed plugs and leads without success.

I have noticed the running is worse and more pronounced when cold. So back to thinking along the line of electrical. And altough the Lambda was clearly doing something as voltages were moving, perhaps the lambda, or coil pack. ?.

Was also wondering if there is a cold start valve on scoobs ?. Whats the black thing just below the ISCV ?.

Cheers

ISCV sorts out cold running along with more fuel added during warm up period.

[Jolly Green Monster]

Originally Posted by RobEvo5

Been working on it all day, and good news is I have solved the fuel leak, as you say simon it was just a corroded pipe. But the running issue is still there.

Moved onto removing the bailey DV in favour of OEM recirc which was a job I wanted to do anyhow, but that hasn't helped either.

Cleaned out Idle speed control valve which was filthy, but that didn't help.

Have already changed plugs and leads without success.

I have noticed the running is worse and more pronounced when cold. So back to thinking along the line of electrical. And altough the Lambda was clearly doing something as voltages were moving, perhaps the lambda, or coil pack. ?.

Was also wondering if there is a cold start valve on scoobs ?. Whats the black thing just below the ISCV ?.

Cheers

That is throttle position sensor.
Ecu adds fuel via coolant temp sensor.
Easy check on laptop