Bov's
 

Hi guys- what bov do people have? I'm considering the hks super sequential...
Views?
:thanx:

keep the standard re-circ valve...

As Ginola said, stick with the standard one until you start to go silly powerful. Same goes for air filter.

SSQV4 can be made to recirc like the standard BOV with an adaptor.

I am using a type 1 SSQV - VTA

My baileys one is gathering dust in the garage.:nod:

BOV delete in my opinion...... :worthy:

Maybe worth running the car as it is for a few weeks before strapping a vta bov onto it :) they can cause issues so best to make sure the car runs good first :)

Dont ask this question on scoobynet as the answers wont be as friendly and helpfull as above lol....

ps stick with the original.

Which dump valves make the fluttering noise instead of the normal psshh noise when changing gear as I'm wanting to change my ballies DV one .

Turbosmart or greddy

Hi guys - thanks for the opinions - gotta ask why stick with original? Naive question maybe but I'm a newb so be kind ;-) ha ha

Basically, in a non technical way (and because I don't fully understand it), the standard recirc works well and the VTA can cause running problems on standard cars. Unless you're desperate for the noise and are pencilling in lots of mods and a remap down the line don't bother.

Ok... But the car I'm getting has the PPP so is running faster than standard so I thought the bov would help...

If Prodrive had though it needed one they would have fitted one. They would also have developed the map for the standard recirc valve. Subarus are very sensitive to modifications and even so much as an induction kit or exhaust can cause problems.

I'm certainly no expert on this though, just going on what I've been told by many more knowledgeable people than me. :-P

Shane

Ok so even something like a do-luck panel filter could cause issues? That's not good...

Thought the newage PPP came with a high flow filter anyway? Be careful if it's over oiled as it can upset the MAF.

A good panel filter is usually ok, it's the induction kits that can cause problems. I run a green filter with no problems.

Shane

Thanks for the info...and it did but the current owner replaced it with a standard filter - I pick up the car tomorrow :-)

I have a pipercross panel filter and haven't noticed any difference apart from hearing a bit more whistle from the turbo. May have also improved the noise from the back end but I already had the filter in when I changed the exhaust. This didn't bring any engine light on though and the car runs very happily.

On red barons point of induction kits, I fitted a japspeed and this threw up a running rich issue and the engine light on mine. The car ran like poop so swapped it straight back. However, I know of a couple of people who have fitted k&n induction kits and have had no problems at all.

I would stick with the standard setup and if you want more power, save up and do it all along with a remap in one go.

Good plan but is an ecotek remap better than the pro drive remap?

OK.... so the map on the PPP is one of two things. On a bugeye, its a additional circuit board added to manage the boost control and raise it slightly. Very crude. On the blobs/hawks, the PPP was a generic remap of the ECU. This is slightly better, in that it can adjust more than just boost - but it was a very 'safe' remap. It gave a bit more performance but was designed to work on all vehicles (and the slight differences from manufacturing) whilst stillmaintaining the Subaru warranty. Basically, it wasn't pushing the limits of any components ;)

An EcuTek remap is completely different. You take the car to someone who then maps your specific car to get the best out of the components on it.

As a rough guide, a standard WRX was about 220bhp. With PPP, this went up to around 250bhp (never the 265 they quoted). With an ecutek map, the standard car would probably make 270-275bhp.

STI's were similar - standard 265bhp, PPP around 290-300bhp, ecutek up to around 330bhp (assuming the PPP sports cat was on the car).

Hope that rough guide helps :)

Bov's
 

To the question why is it bad? The basic answer is that it causes over fueling issues, the MAF sensor reads how much volume of air passes into the intake system and fuels accordingly. A recirc valve, when the throttle is lifted, opens allowing excess pressure to pass back into the inlet in front of the turbo so the air can be re-used again and the turbo draws it back in as you depress the throttle again, the measured quantity of air remaining the same as the MAF has measured. With a dump valve you vent the excess to atmosphere but the ECU does not know this nor does the MAF, fuel is fed in as if that volume of air is still in the system. This can of course be mapped for! But it's not set up for it out of the box.
As for blanking it off for a nice noise, you can do this but you will shorten the life of your turbo by making excess pressure stall the turbo when you lift off the throttle. (Not good).. But it sounds nice!

So basically leave it alone unless you need one. Standard cars that are not re-mapped will drive better with the standard valve with better throttle response and smother gear changes etc etc.

Appreciate all the feedback

Or an opensource map achieves the same thing. :wink:

I know, works fine for me too ;)

listen to these peeps....they know there sh$t :)