At my wits end now
 

Only had it for a couple of weeks. It started to struggle to start sometimes. Changed the fuel pump to a walbro 255, still the same. Spoke to stuart from easy sussex subaru specialist and his machine said its the crank sensor, changed that, still the same.

Spoke to him again (at this point when trying to start the pump would click on and off) and he said the earth cable from the plug that plugs into the pump can melt so I sorted that. Still the same so I replaced the fuel pump relay.

Got in it just now and I couldnt get it to start.... ill go and see him later but does anyone have any ideas or had the same problem?

Ive basically ruled out a fuelling problem and now think it could ignition/spark related?

Or is it the immobiliser? It has a turbo timer and loads of wiring. I dont understand if it was the plugs or injectors surely it wouldnt start at all..

Thats frustrating mate. Must feel like you are working your way through everything. Has Stuart actually seen the car and seen/heard the problem? Wouldnt have thought its the immob as it wouldnt start at all.

Just wondering what kind of immobiliser it has, the standard sigma one has two circuits, one is obviously for the starter motor as it won't turn over with it activated, not sure if the second is on the fuel pump or ignition live. In the old days they were nothing more than a relay which were notoriously unreliable, I'd like to think the more modern ones are solid state so there is no wearing out or dirty contacts. Is there a cam sensor that sits near the turbo that could be getting hot and starting to break down, just a thought as I'm really no expert on these things? Must be worth going round all the connector plugs on any engine wiring and giving them a clean.

Shane

Shane

Stuart has seen the car but not heard the problem as (typical) it always starts fine when I'm with him but have videoed it struggling.

He thinks it could be an alarm/immobiliser problem and I will go and see him later when he's back. If it was a cam sensor surely it come up on his diagnostic reader like the crank sensor did?

Im sure it has a standard immobiliser and thought it could be a dodgy connection aa its cutting the fuel pump.

something cheap to try; the temperature sensor ?

Where abouts is that? How would that stop the car starting sometimes?

Coolant sensor going wrong normally just kicks the fans in

Got a oil leak on mine now, these cars are great arent they lol

Hehe a bad oil leak? Though I suppose any oil leak is bad..

I remember stuart telling me that...

Do you use the turbo timer. If not take it out. My oil rad is the culprit but I think I need to remove the front bumper to get to it.

I use it but its not essential. Surely though if I just unplugged it it wouldn't fix it as I would need to sort the wiring out which is what I cant figure out.

Is it not like the classic, you can remove the rad without the bumper?

It sits in front of the main rad. Just a idea about the turbo timer probually wouldn't make any difference. Best bet is Stuart. Just hard to get him sometimes

Yeah I was meant to see him today but think hes busy but hey ho. Its all good fun.

Hang in there

have you checked all the earth wiring ? also the actual wiring to the starter ? my old supra wouldn't start when hot and it was down to added resistance in the old starter wiring.
New wiring and a relay from the battery sorted it :) just an idea, also can the coolant sensor be checked using a multimeter ?

when the engine is cold, the ecu gives the engine more fuel, kind of like a choke on a carb engine. fauly temp sensor would me underfuel when cold or overfuel when hot which could cause problems starting.
It is located on the top of the engine block under the intake manifold slightly on the drivers side of the engine. it's a bit of an ars3 to get to but an offset spanner will do the trick

It may not be the problem, but like I said, it's something cheap to try so no big loss financialy if it doesn't cure the problem.

one of the main things to fail on our cars is the coil packs.They crack over time.Maybe pull those out .Some will have some spares around im sure,if not a bit of insulating tape will do as a temp measure.But if they are cracked get them replaced as quick as you can as the tape will only last so long.

Thanks for all your help. I will try and test these things when the rain stops.

Went to fill up today and sat there for half an hour trying to get it started.. in the end I just gave up and sat there for about 20 seconds trying to start it and it fired up.

I drove it to the fuel station from cold slowly and the temperature gauge was in the middle when i got there...

Just got home, left it for about 10 mins and it started fine.

Ive ordered a temp sensor anyway. £10 be here Monday.

Update I left it idling to see if tha fans came on and it got to temperature and just stalled..

do you think maybe checking all the sensor values with a multimeter at the ecu may be in order ? I've got the pin out diagrams and values

Have you got a multimetre and time to help me as the car just wont start at the moment lol. Fun fun.

I was just going out to have a play with mine so i can pop round if you like, I have a multimeter, where are you in hailsham ?

Do you know knockhatch adventure park? Ill pm you.

Pmd you too...

Fit an earthing kit old Scoobs have rubbish earths, cured all my sensor issues

Just had jay round. Thanks for all your help and advice.

Cars in pieces inside and engine bay lol and am going to change the temperature sensor as it was off on the reading when cold. Worth a try. If anyone has one for sale pm me need it asap.

Also checked the earth leads and connections and all looks fine.

Update: I removed and cleaned all the earths and the crank sensor. Reset the codes, now theres no codes showing up.

Yesterday we checked some of the voltages with a multimetre, mainly the engine temp sensor and starter and the temp sensor was out and the starter was under what it should be.
Just checked them all now and the voltages are all spot on in the brackets...

Hopefully should be all fixed... car was also drived, heated up, switched off and it started fine several times.

That's good news hopefully you won't have anymore problems .

Cool. Glad you seem to have it sorted.

Hope it's sorted

Nice one !

and you also found your ecu is chipped by bozz speed so make sure you put the good 97+ petrol in buddy! :)

I only put that v nitro stuff in it. So what advantages should I have if its been chipped by them?

no one really knows buddy, usually ups the boost for one. I'm sure someone will have an idea

If it's chipped then it may be the fitting of the chip in the ECU that has a dry/bad solder joint.
The chips were fitted to a spare location on the board that required de-soldering of 28 PTH's and fitting the chip or a chip DIL holder.
A link resistor is then cut to run the remapped chip instead of the on-board chip.
I would suggest you check the solder joints as I have seen very bad fitting in the past.

You can also add the removed link, to run the base board and standard map.

Jap mapping on the ECU I've seen was very poor and very aggressive, especially for UK fuel. Some of them I am surprised ran at all.

Below is a piccie from my old website :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...20Maps/ecu.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...0Maps/chip.jpg

Hmmm that's too involved with wiring and stuff so I may leave that for someone who knows what they are doing lol.

Omg its back wont start.

Sorry to hear the bad news mate. Have you changed the fuel filter yet?

No you blew it out remember? Plus I cant imagine thay being the reason it wont start when hot.

There is a fuel filter in the engine bay as well

Is it a sealed unit or can I open it and get the filter out?

The fuel filter was what i was playing with the other day mate, looked fairly new to be honest, still they cost peanuts so worth replacing, on the right hand side of the bay by the suspension turret.

Okay thanks. Is there a filter I can get out and check or is it the complete unit?

sealed unit I'm afraid

Hmm okay. I'll see how I go with the temp sensor, trying to get hold of craig for a cam sensor too.

If the car wont start now and its the cam sensor, would it start if I unplugged it?