Limiting factor
 

As most of you know I'm currently running 440BHp on the MD321x now both James and Charlie got more from the turbo so I'm trying to work out the limiting factors, obviously having ported not tubular headers will be one area. But I'm trying to work out what else to change at the same time.....

How much will my 100cell centre section sports cat (Milltek) be reducing potential by?
Do I need bigger than 650cc injectors (parallel setup with high flow pump and adjustable fpr)
Should I be considering a swirl pot - and if I do will I need a remap?

Decatt and tubulars and a fpr . Swirl pot is a good mode at any level if taking on track :)

Probably the cat.
I spoke to an exhaust specialist before i decatted mine and he recommended a parrallel 100 cell cat for 400bhp+, if there is room to fit it.
But due to this the cost obviously doubles.

Won't the 650's be maxing out soon when you up the hp?

That was my main concern, already running fuel lab fpr to parallel rails. I thought I may get away with the cat as Litchfield get 450 from the Types 25s on the same exhaust. Guess I need to really swap the centre for a de-cat and possibly up the injectors.
Swirl pot will probably follow after as I guess no re-map needed?

Try find WRX injectors and get them re-flowed by CJ or Mark@Lateral Performance and you have 800cc injectors...

FPR should be good too,someone(si2000) selling on SN GT spec headers for £200

Jura

Will need a check after fitting swirl pot

Which 650 injectors do you have?

What are you looking to get power wise?

Looking to pretty much max the turbo MD321x (V with smaller exhaust) should be around the 470 mark I believe - as my block is only a semi closed 2.5 much more puts me into 'will it won't it' territory.
I may get the block 'closed' at a later date and go for real numbers with twisted etc. however plan for now is just to make the most of what I have now and also probably a bit of tidying up/rewiring/routing etc. plus suspension rebushing etc.

Reflowed Blues - 'Injectortune' I think, they came with the flow printouts.

Any tips on where you source the parts and what size to go for? Guess I just fit in the boot and use the OE lines - I'm sure I've seen some under the bonnet what are peoples views on this?

It made 507bhp on mine with V power ;)

I would guess your injectors will need stepping up if you are considering more power in the future.

What fuel pump/s do you have ?

engine tuner put it under the bonnet, most put in boot, I would use braided lines and up rate the fuel pump to a Bosch one if it was me to future proof. I have heard you can get some fuel smell when it's put in the boot though?

I used 850 injectors with a 255 in tank and a 044

Thinking I might put the battery in the boot as that's easy and use the free'd up space for the Surge tank setup under the bonnet. Otherwise it's Tank and 044 in the boot which will mean ditching the sub and amp I guess - shame the process west kit is so expensive.

Mines in the boot with Amp and bass box

Mines in the boot, 255 in tank pump feeding swirl pot then 044 feeding fuel rails.
Doesn't take up much room and don't get any fuel smell

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...3/d1d93116.jpg

Are you running Teflon hoses the full length of the car?

Also have you binned the Charcoal canister etc. as well?

Any chance of a pic so I can get as many ideas as possible?

Still thinking about the best way to install a surge tank in my 2002 Bugeye and was looking at the fuel system:
http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/o...lustration.gif

As I'm running Syvecs and have removed the Purge control solenoid valve and blocked the evap metal pipe at engine bay end, can I just remove the Charcoal canister and block the fuel cut valves (I'd probably just link the two to close the system) or will this prevent the rollover switch from operating (Does Syvecs retain this feature) and mean the engine runs on if the car was to roll?

Also does anybody have an image to show which are the fuel feed from 'lift' pump and fuel return hoses for when I start to plumb up the system - and did you feed a new live all the way from the battery for the relay or is there a closer location?

OK I've done lots more reading and research on this...

Currently I have bunged the hard pipe evap return to the throttle body/inlet manifold and removed the purge valve solenoid and the 2 way valve etc. The original purpose of this I believe was to draw air through the charcoal Canister and remove the fuel that was 'trapped' in there.

The fuel tank has two vents, both with fuel cut valves - (these are plasitc floats thet close the vent in case of tank over filling or rollover to prevent liquid fuel getting into the evap/vent system) these vent to the charcoal canister which traps the fumes - (fumes removed by the evap return to the manifold when the purge solenoid is opened, if it wasn't removed!).

I assume therefore as I don't get any form of air lock that the Charcoal canister must VTA allowing the fuel tank to breathe when driving (removing fuel therefore causing a vaccum) or filling up (making filling difficult as fuel cannot get past the escaping air).

So my thought is this..... If I remove the Charcoal Canister and leave the vent from the two fuel cut valves unblocked, my tank should still be adequately vented, I will make sure that the vent is in a suitable place (outside car and protected from worst of road muck) and add a small filter. Or am I just making things too hard?

Also is there a reason that I should retain/reinstall the purge valve solenoid system to the manifold if I keep the Charcoal canister because in my logic if the canister is 'emptied' by the return evap line and I've blocked it the canister must get too full?

I am happy to be corrected on any of this because it's mostly forum/website research therefore quite possibly rubbish!

Errrr not quite sure what you said but i binned the charcoal thingy. Yes your making things harder. Your speaking geek & would need to talk to Scott or Simon :EVO:

When you binned it did you bung the pipes or just leave them venting?

Think your looking into this alittle to deep, never touched the canister at all when I done mine, just left the purge valve pipe to manifold vta.

Think maybe you're right! So you just disconnected the evap line under the bonnet and didn't seal it up? Did you remove the Purge Valve etc. as well or leave that in place and disconnect from Manifold?

Purge valve in the filed under b