Project Family Wagon
Sooo, I always like this part of owning a new car, deciding what mods to buy for it!
Last weekend myself and my wife decided we needed something bigger as we now have an 8 month old, I was currently driving a JDM 1996 Honda Integra DC2 Type R. I love the car loads but unfortunately it was time to move on. The Wife's criteria was something bigger so we were able to use as a family car, my criteria was something faster as I've never owned a turbo'd car! After a little searching I stumbled across a 2006 Impreza WRX Wagon for sale on the local selling pages, after studying the pictures I decided to go and see the car for myself. Needless to say after the first test drive I was hooked! Bodywork is acceptable for its age, a minor scuff on the rear bumper and scratches all over the passenger door from a dog, but nothing major. No rust that I could see apart from a teeny weeny bit in the door shut on the nearside rear. Once I'd driven the car and had a good look round, I decided to make an offer. So here she is; https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4668/...296e5794_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4706/...5b5d103c_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4752/...b41f1b32_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4695/...227ab2a1_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4716/...6dd694af_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4751/...0bb09704_c.jpg The car came with a custom made exhaust, with some sort of cheap carbon fibre can. It was okay. The previous owner had also had her up on Surrey Rolling Road, with a printout for a healthy 261.7 WHP. This car seems to have reboosted my love for the modified car scene, I have been away from it for a while! In any case, my ideas for the near future: (No Particular Order) Interior The Usual Gauges - Oil Temp, Pressure and Boost. Short Shifter OEM WRX Gear Knob New Carpets And Mats Redress The Tired Leather Interior Exterior 17" Rota Grid Alloy Wheels, Green or Black Coilovers, Lowered 20mm Over Standard. Drilled And Grooved Brake Discs Carbon Front Lip Carbon Side Skirts Carbon Wing Mirrors Debadged Rear Tailgate Tinted Rear Windows Engine Afterburner Raptor Stainless Back Box Full Afterburner Stainless Exhaust With Sports Cat (Downpipe to Back Box) Forge Dump Valve Various Engine Dress Up Items Carbon Radiator Cooling Plate Blue Silicone Hoses This list is non-exhaustive, as I will probably find more ideas/change my mind on a few bits! |
So after taking her for a good spin the other day I started to notice a really loud 'Whooshing' sound every time I accelerated and the turbo spooled up, on investigation I noticed the Carbon 'custom' back box had kind of exploded!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4614/...8e604b43_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4618/...14547d32_c.jpg Needless to say I needed a replacement sharpish! After a chat with my friend from work (He also drives a Scooby!) he recommended me to check out Scoobyworld and get an Afterburner. So I had a look and decided on an Afterburner Raptor; https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4758/...7ce9f0e5_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4675/...b71b754c_c.jpg It came pretty much the next day and I couldn't wait to set about fitting it! Removing the old back box wasn't as easy as I'd hoped! I put the car up onto my ramps and crawled underneath. One of the bolts came off no problem! The other was so badly corroded, what used to be a 14mm bolt head, was more like and 11-11.5mm haha. I was having a nightmare trying to get my sockets and spanners to fit, I even tried to tighten it up to shear the bolt, I even tried a cold chisel and hammer but nothing was shifting it. So I decided to do the one thing I hated doing as it went against all my years of training as an engineer... hammer the **** out of a 10mm socket to fit the head! It worked and I was able to quickly fit the new back box. I started her up for the first time and what a sound! That classic Scooby burble with a really deep tone to her voice. I love it! Mixed with the whine from the turbo spool up, I love the sound it makes when driving the car! Now I can't wait to have the full system fitted. A picture paints a thousand words; https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4624/...4bf4c549_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4698/...9e7d684d_c.jpg Not too loud and just the right amount of noise to be noticed. Also, a very pretty looking 5" slash cut tip! 8-) |
Looks nice i would go with different coilovers like Tein , Eibach , KW wouldnt waste your hard earned money on bc .
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My FSTi was bought in contemplation of starting a family and once our eldest arrived, Mrs Stig got a Blob Wagon, so I can empathise with your approach!
Looks nice and it'll be interesting to see how it develops under your ownership! Couldn't see "tint windows" on your list... I'd recommend that. |
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I'm hoping to keep regular updates, all depending on money etc however I have plans over these coming months and hope to have the wheels and coilovers sorted just after the dump valve and gauges... thanks for the like Stig! :ok: |
Nice to see another wagon on here, mine was bought for similar reasons. I went with MeisterR coilovers and they are great.
Sent from my Swift 2 X using Tapatalk |
we can supply a better quality TEIN c/over or Pedders lowered kit at better value and quality than the BC's.......
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By the way, since yours is on a 55 plate is it the 2.0 or 2.5 engine?
Sent from my Swift 2 X using Tapatalk |
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I had MeisterR on my old Honda Civic, fantastic coilovers! The only downside is the cost... :brickwall: |
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EJ25 engine :ok: |
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Shane |
Coilovers covers what ever you buy! They work perfect !!!
Keeps it all mint , I'd never run coils without them again |
Dump valves :(
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Haha, people not a fan of dump valves then?
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Update time, bling for the engine bay and the ears!
Don't judge me, I like the noise and it's my first turbo car, let me have my 5 minutes haha :fight: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4617/...ba0e9193_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4654/...11bcc1cd_c.jpg Fitted in around 20 minutes as the recirc pipe was rather difficult to remove, easy to fit the new one. Jubilee clip on the bung and managed to pinch a couple of stainless bolts and spring washers from work as didn't want to put discoloured bolts back onto a shiny new thing! Quick test run, everything feels good as far as I can tell and sounds awesome! I still have the old recirc valve so at any time something feels wrong, it goes back on! :ok: |
Shiny...
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Rest of the bay needs cleaning now... |
Silver wagon, nice :-D
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More shiny bits ordered from Scoobyworld!
Blue Mishimoto Radiator Stays. Blue Scoobyworld Intercooler/Throttle Body Silicone Hose. Prosport Triple 52mm Gauge Pack: Oil Temp, Oil Pressure & Boost. Should be here tomorrow :ok: |
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Some more shiny's arrived today...
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4770/...469e0e50_c.jpg Scoobyworld 52mm Gauge Pod Prosport Boost Gauge Prosport Oil Temp Gauge Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge Mishimoto Radiator Stays Oil Pressure/Temp Fitting Kit Scoobyworld Intercooler To Throttle Body Blue Silicone Hose Hoping to get around to fitting these tomorrow. Question is for the radiator stays, do I stick with the Black Anodised bolts provided or go stainless M8 bolts? Also, I'll get a raise of hands for the Scoobyworld gauge pod or an ATI pod I got from SamSTI off these forums...? https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4628/...5e537279_c.jpg Looking forward to some feedback! :ok: |
Project Family Wagon
ATI pod :ok:
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Yesterday I got round to fitting a boost gauge and ATI/DEFI Gauge Pod. This will be a semi-how to;
*Disclaimer* I will not be held responsible for any mistakes that YOU make whilst carrying out my instructions, this is the way I did mine and it works. First things first, I cut into the vacuum line coming off the two o'clock position on the dump valve/recirc valve and joined them back together using the T-Piece. I then attached and routed the blue silicone vacuum hose along the clutch vacuum line and secured into position with cable ties and the already mounted hose clamps on the bulkhead/firewall. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CABLE TIES AS THIS WILL AFFECT THE PRESSURE IN THE LINE. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4630/...3252b03e_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4744/...7ef9dd6f_c.jpg Once I'd finished routing the vacuum line I cut around 3 inches from the end and placed the inline filter that was provided with the kit, this not only smooths out pulses but it also filters out any nasty contaminants from entering the pressure sender unit. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/...3a3fe837_c.jpg Once the filter had been fitted I removed the firewall bung just above the turbo, this comes out next to the clutch pedal. You have to remove a tiny bit of the insulation in the cabin but it is already pre-cut for you. I used my Stanley knife to cut an 'X' into the bung big enough to pass the wire and connector through then pushed it back into place in the firewall on the engine side. I then proceeded to feed the sensor wire through the hole and pulled through from within the cabin until I had enough to feed up to where the Gauge Pod sits on the dashboard. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/...c8e7348f_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4627/...34a01077_c.jpg Note in the pictures above if you follow the sensor wire down you will see where the bung is on the firewall. I also at this point mounted the sender unit on the clutch fluid bracket but I may move this at a later date due to hot exhaust gases rising around this point. Once I was finished mounting and securing everything in the engine bay I popped the plastic surround off just below the steering wheel, I was unsure how to remove it entirely so I only pulled the corner off but this gave me plenty of space to work with. I also removed the clock and surround from the top of the dashboard, this bit is easy as it is only held in with clips. You might have to use a flat bladed screwdriver to 'persuade' it from it's mount. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4666/...64d1be3a_c.jpg When you remove the connector from the back of the clock, take note which wires correspond to what. Its written on the underside of the clock unit so you can't really go wrong but to make things easier I cut the plug off and placed it back into it's socket for a visual aid. RED - Battery +ve BLACK - Battery -ve / Earth ORANGE - Accessory PURPLE - Lights These colours are used on my Hawkeye so I presume all new ages but don't quote me. If in doubt, look it up on the net! Now the connector was removed I stripped the ends of all the wires except the purple 'LIGHTS' wire and used a soldering iron to coat the ends in solder. I decided not to use the Purple wire as I wanted day and night modes on the gauge to be Green, therefore I needed no input from the lights. The instructions that come with your gauges will suggest what wires need to be attached to what. The instructions suggested the following for Green on both day and night modes; RED - Battery +ve BLACK - Battery -ve White - No Input Orange - Accessory After preparing the ends of the clock loom and gauge power harness with solder, I soldered them together using the above chart and used heat shrink to cover the newly made connections. I prefer to use heat shrink as it will never come off unless cut. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4614/...75da73f8_c.jpg Now the power side of things was completed I pulled the sensor wire up through the dash and over the top of the heater ducting, make sure to secure this wire away from the clutch pedal as over time the clutch will chafe through this wire! I plugged the connectors in to the back of the boost gauge and turned the ignition on to check it was all working, once I was happy I pushed the pod into place and admired my handy work! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4708/...af421b94_c.jpg Start 'er up! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4706/...296fd256_c.jpg Note I haven't connected up the oil pressure/temp gauges yet as this is a little harder! All of this took me roughly 2 hours to complete, I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I secure and route wires properly etc... You're all clever enough to figure out how to do that bit! :ok: |
Great guide and looks good
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Can copy and paste into the DIY section for others if you like? |
So, it turns out that black ice also affects 4WD!
Hit a patch this morning on the A27 outside Lewes... I'm gutted! https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4617/...1fde493b_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4627/...06294d89_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4655/...ffa328e4_c.jpg Gutted. Off to the bodyshop this morning for a quote and find out the extent of the damage. |
What a shame, hope the bill isn't too scary, if you're not going through insurance there's plenty of breakers out there for the bumpers, light, bonnet and wing and you may even be able to pick them up in the right colour.
I contemplated taking the A27 from Hastings to Crawley this morning rather than risking the cross country route as thought it would be safer, would appear that wasn't the case. |
Ouch!!!
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It could have been a lot worse, I think it's only cosmetic. I can't see any signs of chassis damage. I'd rather not go through the insurance as I want to keep my 6 years NCB! |
JPP aren't the cheapest unfortunately, there's this on eBay
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F253379994770 |
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Bugger! :( It was certainly icy this morning, shame to see you found a bad spot.
Good luck finding parts and getting it fixed. As crazy as it sounds, with that damage front and rear (both bumpers, bonnet, wing and headlamp) I wouldn't be surprised if an insurance company write it off. Hawkeye headlamps are expensive, plus factor in bodyshop /paint and a courtesy car into the claim and it'll push it over the threshold I reckon. Of course its repairable and you could buy it back and put on the road, but then it would be flagged as CatD (or CatN now?) i expect. Hopefully you can do a deal with a breaker for all the parts :) |
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Looks like overtime is in order this year! |
Might be worth trying JPP or MB developments, might be able to piece the parts needed together, I'd have thought there would be single Headlights on eBay, not everyone dings the same corner.
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