Ordered new radiator should be here at the weekend hopefully have one dry day to fit it lol .

Well postie been and dropped new bottom rad hose and clips couirer needs to hurry up and deliver my new rad
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...520173aabd.jpg

Didn't fancy a nice set of aftermarket hoses then?

Erm already got samco top rad hose fitted :whistle::-)

Well its here just need to buy more coolant and a nice day to fit lol
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...8a7b88500c.jpg

Nice day up there? Next spring then :wink::wink:

Yeah thats sounds about right Nick:lol:

You must have loads of parts waiting for that 'nice day' to arrive!

Who me :norty:

Well going to swap radiator today if the rain calms down a bit if not still going to do it lol .

Think my radiator has seen better days lol
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http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...753ee67253.jpg

Old one started to crumble bolts snapped lucky header tank bolts fit and all parts swapped over time for a coffee break before fitting .
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Looks like that was due for replacement, installing the new one can fill you with confidence after you tested your cooling system beyond its limits in Germany!

That wont be happening dont know if i be going yet as find out if i still have a job come the 9th of january lol .

New radiator plumbed in fresh coolant ran to temp for 20 mins letting cool down to see if it requires a top up . Order exhaust header gaskets and crossover pipe gaskets be with me tomorrow so that be next on the list of things to do .

did you get a chance to spray the fan shrouds before putting back in?:oldman:

Nope weather is stopping me from doing bits like that but i will prob either spray them or buy new eventually .

Well checked the car tonight found a new fecking leak but its a simple fix just need to go to halfords and by some uber small jubilee clips as the leak is coming from the pipe that runs from the header tank to the radiator is not on tight enough .

How hard is it to change suspension over and would it be advised to change the 2 bolts for new ones if so what size are they .

About 1.5 - 2 hours if you are taking off, stripping springs/shocks, rebuilding and refitting. On average about 20 mins a corner plus lifting, wheels off and back seat out time.
Quicker per corner if you are just swapping the strut/spring assembly.

When doing the front or rear, get both sides of the car off the ground and level with each other. Then you will not be fighting the tension of the ARB and things will come off, go on and align a lot easier.

Also remember to mark the position of the top bolt on the front hub/strut fixing as this is your camber.
However the rule of thumb is to set this for maximum negative camber which is when the top of the hub is in it's most inward setting. If you rotate the camber bolt with a slack bottom bolt you will see the top of the hub mounting move in and out. Set it at the furthest in position.
Then when tighten this bolt push the top of the hub with your hand via the top of the disk, as far in as possible. You can get an extra bit of negative camber as it takes up the slack in the mounting holes. Mine was always around -1 Degree. By pushing the hub, in this way, I can get about -1.4 Degree.

The most tedious bit is taking the back seat out and then sitting in the back taking off the 6-off top mount nuts.

If stripping springs always crack loose the centre spring cup retainer bolt and slacken to within a few thread of the top whilst the car is still on the ground, prior to removal of the strut. You will struggle to loosen this once it's off the car and risk damaging the strut or damper in the process.

I've never bothered swapping out for new fixings, but TBH I probably should of by now, as they have probably been on/off in excess of 15 times.
Just use a good breaker bar on the main hub-strut fixings.

Following on from my post on the other thread Re:Ride-Height
The optimum setting for a classic is Front 340+/-5mm & Rear 345+/-5mm rear, measured hub centre to arch lip.

The top mount nuts are a pain, be careful not to tighten them too much, they don't need much torque before potentially parting the studs from the top mount.

I found the hardest part can be aligning the hub and the strut whilst trying to get the bolts back in to place, but in theory a simple switch over isn't a Herculean task, I have done mine twice and it was pretty straight forward.

I think this is a newage issue as I had that happen on my Hawkeye and they only came out once !!!!!! Never had this issue on the Classic.....it's probably a quality/cost cut back thing on the newage ;)

Both sides off the ground makes this easier.

Quality and cost cut backs on the new age... Never! It's a fair point though, as I'm starting to find out now I'm on my second new age.

I had realised the second time around lifting both sides of the car made it much easier, I guess it's the things you have to learn along the way when being a give it a go mechanic!

It's the same with the STi seats.
Having had and fitted newage and classic STi seats in mine, although the new age ones look nice, under the skin their a lot more basic and you also lose the seat base front/back tilt mechanism.

Well just my luck as im looking for another exhaust system and a friend of mine is stripping is type r and putting it back to oem spec as he is selling and hes offered me his full 3" cobra system with the 3.5" inward rolled tail pipe thats done about 50 miles for a price that cannot be refused so we are in talks at the moment .

So what you mean is you are trying bash the price down as low as possible..

I am surprised he is not paying you to take it away. :lol::ok:

:lol: well im not going to as its a bargain of the year MR E :whistle::grin:

Thought i would play about with my new app on the phone
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...6e25bb0f39.jpg

Like the pic (put a deposit on the exhaust system :p)

Dont need to guy is letting me hear it then taking it off there and then to give to me:-D

Thats me had the car for a year today and its been on the road for 6/7 months in total as its always in the garage getting fixed :lol: so lets see what next year brings with new goodies.

Well im in the process of doing a deal on another hks system this time its a carbon back box with a ti tip comes with the centre pipe and is a 3" system too
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...84faf564b1.jpg
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Done deal on exhaust time to save for new esl and map with Andy Forrest .

That exhaust looks cool
Not seen one like that

Thats cause its rare benji :-D

Well ive done it again going to collecting this on saturday think ive got a problem lol
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...55dc4e9798.jpg

You may find you need to do a little welding on the centre pipe to get this to fit (if its not been done already), believe these were for bugeye onwards?

Ideal for trackdays though, no trouble with noise levels on one of these:drive:

Its the same system ive got fitted at the moment but different back box as my is the 409 so should be a straight swap as that system was fitted to a classic well thats what im hoping for Ron lol

Cool:drive: think it would only be the centre section thats different (if at all) so back box should be straight swap with yours anyway:drive: